Posted on 03. Dec, 2007 by in Updates


Brian and I arrived in New Hampshire last Monday in a driving rain storm. Tuesday everthing was soaking wet, but we hiked around and saw some really nice things. Pawtuckaway is the largest bouldering area in New England and it is very pretty. There are two main areas, Boulder Natural, where the rock is plentiful but sharp, and Blair Woods, where the boulders are smaller but the granite is immaculate. Erratics are scattered everywhere, leading one to think that next best thing must be lurking in the forest.

Boulder Natural

We decided to meet our friend Max Zolotuhkin on Wed. I felt exceptionally flat and climbed really poorly. I did manage all the moves on a classic V11 called Halycon.

Max on Halcyon V11

Our skin was trashed and we rested on Thursday.
Friday the weather was sunny and cold. We headed back to Halycon and I coudn’t seem to put it together. I felt very tired and it always seems to take me a few days to get used to a new environment. I tried a bunch of problems in an attempt to regain fitness from the time off over Thanksgiving but only climbed a couple of dumpy V8s.
Friday we decided to head up the road and check out Rumney. The high on Friday was 16 degrees and I’m not sure Brian and I sersiously considered climbing. Rumney is world reknown for its roped climbing but there are some classic boulders at the base of the cliff. We literally ran down the road with our pads in an effort to warm up. It was the coldest conditions I had ever climbed in, and Brian agreed. I can’t emphasize how bone chilling it really was. We just starting trying Satan’s Choice V11 and I sent it after a few tries.

Satan’s Choice V11, Rumney

This was a really fun problem and I was psyched to send. The rock in Rumney is very similar to the rock in RMNP in many respects and this problem was no different. A nice pocket and a small intermediate lead to a big move to a good edge.


The next day was much warmer (25 degrees) and we went back to Pawtuckaway, this time to the Blair Woods. I was psyched to try Child of the Storm but a split tip on my right hand would need to heel for that to happen. Sit and Deliver V12 is on the same boulder and a classic line. I did the moves very quickly and started trying from the start. Two mess up burns followed and I rested for a bit. Conditions were perfect! The next go I did the first move and went to the top. This is one of the best problems I have climbed in a while and I was really psyched to do it so quickly. Brian did the stand start Stand and Deliver V11 soon afterwords.

Brian Capps about to Stand and Deliver


It has an obvious start, a flat landing, its a nice size, outstanding rock and classic moves. I got the send on video and if things go well, I should have that up in a few days.
Psyched from the energy of the sends I ran a lap on The Rose V7, another classic problem on the same boulder. I then conviced Brian we should head back to Boulder Natural so I could try Halycon again. This time it went down first try from the start. A classic boulder as well. With energy to spare we hiked into the woods and both did the short roof Dome Piece V10 on our second attempts from the start. I finished off the day by climbing Stegasaurus V9. It was good to finally feel strong again, especially on my 3rd day on, and I am looking forward to seeing what else New England has to offer. Unfortunately, this morning we woke up to 6 inches of snow on the ground with more on the way.

5 Responses to “Pawtuckaway”

  1. tim m

    04. Dec, 2007

    Good sends at pway. snows here now but it should blow dry off the more exposed locations. g.b.sunnyside….and of course the speed boulder..

  2. Max

    04. Dec, 2007

    proud day there, jaimerson! i am crossing my fingers that this snow melts….

  3. chetroy

    04. Dec, 2007

    If you are coming through PA, there is plenty of stellar lines to do. And projects to be sent. I started the scene at Gretna (diabase), so if you would like a tour let me know. There is a proud proj. there we refer to as, the bulge. All the moves have gone but one (totally doable). PA also has some sweet sandstone (Hunters, Elk, and more). Love to share our great boulders.

  4. paul

    04. Dec, 2007

    head south! prolly no snow in bradley, gunks, gb…. but not positiive

  5. Matty O-

    04. Dec, 2007

    JE – Great to hear you are in my old stomping grounds. I bouldered at Pawtuckaway a couple weeks ago. I have always loved it there, and used to go several times a week when I was at UNH. I threw up a vid of The Whip on my blog – the classic V2 highball in the Natural area. I remember leading that on gear back in the day – it was fun to run nice clean laps on it… Have a great trip, and safe travels!

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