Red River Gorge Bouldering

Posted on 23. Nov, 2007 by in Updates

Friday I arrived in KY after 1300 miles in the car and drove straight to the Cove, a powerband with lots of potential for hard problems. Timy Fairfield was there randomly and was very psyched on the idea of all the hard problems that could be done. My main objective was Ghetto Methods, a V10 put up by Dave Hume many years ago. I have a goal to climb a V10 in as many states as possible and this would fulfill my Kentucky requirement. Not to mention, the Red is a beautiful area and a great place to climb and hang out. It was very humid but I managed to get the send after a few tries. Timy was trying a very crimpy roof on the left side of the band. I tried it briefly before it got too dark. He and his girlfriend Brandi cooked a wonderful fish dinner that night, and I slept like a rock.
The next morning Angela met up with me and we were planning on going sport climbing, that is until we realized we didnt have any quickdraws. Back up to the Cove we hiked. I finished Timy’s problem on my first go and then worked another project to near completion that is probably in the V12 range. I am back home for a few days, and then Monday Brian and I leave for New England. Check out a quick video from the far side of the Nada Tunnel.

19 Responses to “Red River Gorge Bouldering”

  1. campusman

    23. Nov, 2007

    max scene arete might be v10, but i dont know, all i know is that the slopers are bad, the edges are thin, and its a high step up to a good foot hold.

    also i have beta on schofics scam, you remember that hard traverse that could move into the suicide machine. it climbs straight up to the right of balerina.

    the move is sick, a huge swing when you hit the big hueco side pull.

  2. Nick

    23. Nov, 2007

    What V10 are you gonna climb in Florida? Huh? Huh?

  3. matt

    23. Nov, 2007

    what do you have in mind for PA?

    Northern Sandstone?

  4. jamie

    23. Nov, 2007

    Nick read what I wrote
    “in as many states as possible”

  5. jamie

    23. Nov, 2007

    only PA if things get snowy in New England

  6. Woooord

    23. Nov, 2007

    Come to Arkansas! And tell us when you are so I can be there for that. Plenty of hard stuff to work at the Ranch. Area 74, which is 45 minutes from the Ranch is developing, and there are some hard projects going up…

  7. wpa

    23. Nov, 2007

    would be missing out if didn’t swing through Pa and WV for bouldering, as good as anything in new england

  8. jamie

    24. Nov, 2007

    steep granite is my favorite, is there some of this style in PA/WV? I would love to see pictures of problems in the V12-14 range or projects. email me if you have some at

  9. campusman

    24. Nov, 2007

    je, are u comin to gl for a session ? get back to me asap!

  10. campusman

    24. Nov, 2007

    …je climbs hardest moves at the red ever

  11. big poppa chosscrush

    24. Nov, 2007

    yo: me thinks that the fa-ist of ghetto methods was a clown named chris redmond…. cardboard dog knows his foolishface. i remember this from the first climbing magazine i ever purchased which included a photo of the line on the quick hits kinda section.

    you may wait till later to bow to my knowledge. that way, more folks may be assembled to enjoy the event. i’m hoping that a ‘dippin dots’ vendor will be on hand, or maybe a beer man

  12. Jamie

    25. Nov, 2007

    jj, you are thinking of a photo of chris redmond on Ghetto Methods, which is a Dave Hume FA. Redmond proclaims “this is the hardest problem I’ve seen in the south east”

  13. the bpc

    26. Nov, 2007


    hume is a good, humble kid. perhaps i can coax him to submit to my revisionist history w/ a six-pack bribe?

  14. matt

    26. Nov, 2007

    that other dudes camera setup is crushing yours. 3 tips for you….

    1. step your game up
    2. shut up when you are filming, that’s super amateur status and sounds terrible
    3. use quicktime with your site.

  15. Eliott

    27. Nov, 2007

    Jamie, you should definitely come to PA. Haycock is a nice lowkey area with really unique stone only found in a few areas in PA. Hanks in the area right now too so i could give him a call if you want to meet up. I’d love to show you some of the harder lines that went up recently, they are truely asthetic as well as difficult. Give me a call if you’re interested! 484-903-3214

  16. Eliott

    27. Nov, 2007

    Oh yeah, and JJ is right on about Ghetto Methods. Definitely a Redmond FA. He put up a rad V10 at Haycock too called Peligro. Good stuff.

  17. wade

    27. Nov, 2007



  18. jamie

    28. Nov, 2007

    Matt, I do my best with limited resources. I am just trying to provide alot of media to get people psyched.

  19. Eliott

    29. Nov, 2007

    also, Chris said he got the second on Ghetto Mthods ..

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