Comments on: Trice

By: Climbing Magazine

Climbing Magazine — Sun, 30 Dec 2007 02:33:52 +0000

[...] Trice [...]

By: jamie

jamie — Wed, 21 Nov 2007 04:35:22 +0000

Christian, thanks for your post. I have already privately written Carlo and given him some of my thoughts. It was not my intention to take anything away from him or to “imply” that mine was the second ascent. I knew there would be some controversy, and I didn’t want to come out and make any statements one way or the other. I simply was trying to stay out of it, and keep the post as simple as possible. I wrote Carlo to tell him Congrats. He is a very strong climber and deserves a lot of respect.
In regards to the foot. Everyone I talked to before I did the problem told me the foot was on. The consensus seemed to be that if you were going to offroute footholds, the problem had been contrived into oblivion. I also recall you saying that Holloway bumped again off the pocket, in which case the specific footholds would be of little importance. No matter, your comments are appreciated and are supportive and constructive. Thanks! see you out there

By: christian griffith

christian griffith — Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:45:33 +0000

Hi Jamie,
Again good effort on your send. However I do think that it is unfortunate that you fail to mention that Carlo climbed this line an hour before you. While I know you don’t actually say you did the second ascent it certianly is implied. I know that some might considered it arguable that since Carlo started using the right hand edge next to the left hand side pull rather then the undercling six inches lower, his ascent shouldn’t count. However, anyone who has tried the line seriously realises this is an irrelevant distinction and that the starts are essentially the same, if not, the undercling version making it slight easier to set the feet before beginning the business.
The real question should be is the use of the high left foot acceptable.. it is used as a hand hold on another route and falls outside of the direct line of ascent. If we are considering AHR /Trice a “contrived” route then perhaps what you boys have accomplished is yet another variation, albiet one step closer to the original line then what Jim Karn and Ben Moon had done, and that the coveted “second” is still a prize waiting to be claimed!

By: Matt Lavender

Matt Lavender — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 22:18:33 +0000

Jamie – I clicked on the Jim H. interview and there was a pic of THE MAN on Trice. It is clear that you were on the right holds and we were flailing on something that would check in at V25 – motivated solely by the legend of Holloway!

By: Matt Lavender

Matt Lavender — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 21:56:00 +0000

Greetings Jamie! Saw the Trice postings and was intrigued. I almost never look at online videos but had to check this out. I remember trying Trice with Harrison and Christian 25+ years ago. The problem is, we were trying the probelm starting on the undercling (down and right of your start). Our start made the reach up to the pocket way long and the move after impossible, at least for us. It also pretty much eliminated the possibility of using your high, left foothold. It could easily be that we had the wrong idea of where Trice went……. Did you ever ask Jim H or Jim M what holds were used? On a related note, a large flake, possibly useful for the feet, has fallen off and the starting hold you used for the left hand used to be much bigger.

By: Jim Beissel

Jim Beissel — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 21:18:56 +0000

Nice send Jamie, keep crankin’

By: Don Bird

Don Bird — Thu, 15 Nov 2007 20:19:57 +0000

What’s the big deal? Just grab the rock and walk up it. A baby could do it!

By: mervo

mervo — Thu, 15 Nov 2007 18:44:55 +0000

Nice job Jamie. Way to put history and controversy to rest.

By: thevealchop

thevealchop — Thu, 15 Nov 2007 16:32:04 +0000

what! what! Nice job, JE. SICK!!!

By: Gnome

Gnome — Thu, 15 Nov 2007 14:16:41 +0000

Excellent work Jamie…& it was originally done before you were even a twinkle in yer Mums eye, how cool is that!!