Trice

Posted on 15. Nov, 2007 by in Bouldering Videos

Today I went to Flagstaff to try Trice, an unrepeated problem put up by Jim Holloway. I have been trying Trice for a few days this winter. There is alot of controversy surrounding all of the unrepeated Holloway problems and this one is no exception. After doing as much research as I could, I was under the impression that Trice started on a right hand undercling (as later confirmed when Andy Mann actually called Jim Holloway from Flagstaff) and a left hand sidepull. The climber would then move up right hand to a sloping pocket, left hand to a bad edge and then to the top. In the first couple days, I did all the moves and got psyched to try and really give it a good effort as the weather got colder. Holloway himself called the problem “gross” and “contrived”, but its value lies in its history. 32 years have gone by since Jim first did the problem. Which brings us to today. I did the hard move once and then fired it from the start my second try today. I think that V12 is an appropriate grade, although I would put it on the harder end of the scale. It could get V13 in Hueco as it felt harder than other problems with that grade in Hueco. Anyways, it’s B2+ now and here is the video of my send.

I can’t thank Chip Phillips, Andy Mann and Angela enough for coming up and supporting me through several dark and freezing days.

Update: Check out www.enlightenedchuffer.blogspot.com and climbingbum.blogspot.com for two other perspectives on the evening. Also of interesting note, Mike Feinberg was there on Monday night and came amazingly close to doing it without the high foot by hitting the left hand edge and using his momentum to swing out to the jug. He felt this was easier than the method Carlo and I used.

12 Responses to “Trice”

  1. Andy Mann

    15. Nov, 2007

    It was great to see that thing go down in the proper style. Nice job again Jamie!

  2. chuffer

    15. Nov, 2007

    No problems my man, awesome work. It was fun to watch you work it over the last few weeks. Psyched for you!!! I’ll be in touch.

  3. Gnome

    15. Nov, 2007

    Excellent work Jamie…& it was originally done before you were even a twinkle in yer Mums eye, how cool is that!!

  4. thevealchop

    15. Nov, 2007

    what! what! Nice job, JE. SICK!!!

  5. mervo

    15. Nov, 2007

    Nice job Jamie. Way to put history and controversy to rest.

  6. Don Bird

    15. Nov, 2007

    What’s the big deal? Just grab the rock and walk up it. A baby could do it!

  7. Jim Beissel

    16. Nov, 2007

    Nice send Jamie, keep crankin’

  8. Matt Lavender

    16. Nov, 2007

    Greetings Jamie! Saw the Trice postings and was intrigued. I almost never look at online videos but had to check this out. I remember trying Trice with Harrison and Christian 25+ years ago. The problem is, we were trying the probelm starting on the undercling (down and right of your start). Our start made the reach up to the pocket way long and the move after impossible, at least for us. It also pretty much eliminated the possibility of using your high, left foothold. It could easily be that we had the wrong idea of where Trice went……. Did you ever ask Jim H or Jim M what holds were used? On a related note, a large flake, possibly useful for the feet, has fallen off and the starting hold you used for the left hand used to be much bigger.

  9. Matt Lavender

    16. Nov, 2007

    Jamie – I clicked on the Jim H. interview and there was a pic of THE MAN on Trice. It is clear that you were on the right holds and we were flailing on something that would check in at V25 – motivated solely by the legend of Holloway!

  10. christian griffith

    19. Nov, 2007

    Hi Jamie,
    Again good effort on your send. However I do think that it is unfortunate that you fail to mention that Carlo climbed this line an hour before you. While I know you don’t actually say you did the second ascent it certianly is implied. I know that some might considered it arguable that since Carlo started using the right hand edge next to the left hand side pull rather then the undercling six inches lower, his ascent shouldn’t count. However, anyone who has tried the line seriously realises this is an irrelevant distinction and that the starts are essentially the same, if not, the undercling version making it slight easier to set the feet before beginning the business.
    The real question should be is the use of the high left foot acceptable.. it is used as a hand hold on another route and falls outside of the direct line of ascent. If we are considering AHR /Trice a “contrived” route then perhaps what you boys have accomplished is yet another variation, albiet one step closer to the original line then what Jim Karn and Ben Moon had done, and that the coveted “second” is still a prize waiting to be claimed!

  11. jamie

    21. Nov, 2007

    Christian, thanks for your post. I have already privately written Carlo and given him some of my thoughts. It was not my intention to take anything away from him or to “imply” that mine was the second ascent. I knew there would be some controversy, and I didn’t want to come out and make any statements one way or the other. I simply was trying to stay out of it, and keep the post as simple as possible. I wrote Carlo to tell him Congrats. He is a very strong climber and deserves a lot of respect.
    In regards to the foot. Everyone I talked to before I did the problem told me the foot was on. The consensus seemed to be that if you were going to offroute footholds, the problem had been contrived into oblivion. I also recall you saying that Holloway bumped again off the pocket, in which case the specific footholds would be of little importance. No matter, your comments are appreciated and are supportive and constructive. Thanks! see you out there

  12. Climbing Magazine

    30. Dec, 2007

    […] Trice […]

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