Andre DeFelice has made the 10th ascent of Circadian Rhythm V13 in the Poudre Canyon. He is the first person from Ft. Collins to send the problem. Sounds like he has been climbing alot up there lately. Circadian is one of the oldest, least repeated, most attempted and most amazing V13s in Colorado. This is what Paul Robinson said on Climbing.com after he sent the problem “if this is V13, then every other V13 I’ve done in Colorado needs to be downgraded.” Andre is super motivated and has a great attitude. Nice work.
In other news Scott Blunk has written a comment which needs to be placed in the forefront about what he knows about Meathook and Holloway. I have reposted it here for all to see.
“I have been familiar with this problem for over 30 years, here is my two cents.
First, the initial right undercling hold did break and was glued back by Sherman. It is slightly better than before. The difference doesn’t matter, the first move pulling off the ground is indeed easy. I don’t know why Holloway indicated “pulling off the ground” was the crux, the sequence he related to us made it clear that matching in the underclings was the crux. Perhaps he misspoke during the interview, maybe Andy Mann can clear that up?
The sequence Holloway told us he used was to pull on, reach the upper right undercling first (as an undercling, not a gaston), reposition the feet, match into the left undercling and then up to the big horizontal using the meathook hold as a sidepull with the left hand.
As to whether or not Holloway actually did Meathook, I am sure he did. I climbed with Jim several times in the late 70’s. At that time I and others were able to do V-9ish problems within 5-6 sessions. Jim was much, much stronger than anyone else at that time. His fingers were phenomenal, he could hang on really small holds easily. I believe he had the physical tools to do Meathook and certainly the persistence and desire. I have seen one other person, Chris Hill, who almost matched in the underclings, so I am certain the problem is doable the way Holloway did it.
As far as Dave Twinam’s method, it is significantly different. He used a combination of stemming and taking the right undercling as a gaston. His method is hard as hell and a valid ascent. I think the issue is whether or not anyone can repeat Holloway’s method.
I will be happy to meet anyone who interested to show what I know about the problem, just shoot me an email. I think it would be fantastic to get some of you strong lads on it and see a repeat this winter!”
Scott Blunk
I can’t thank Scott enough for his contribution. This is exactly the kind of first hand information I was looking for.
So after doing the Hang and getting thoroughly shut down on Meathook, I decided to do a little research. The first place I went to was the man himself, Jim Holloway. Holloway worked the problem for 20 days in 1974 and 75 before finally sending it. How was it that two climbers (Paul and myself), that have climbed so many hard problems, were unable to do the moves? Here is what Holloway says about the route in an interview on www.climbing.com.
“Meathook too was an interesting challenge… So, I’d wait for (Jim Michael) down at Meathook trying and trying to do the first moves but I never really took it too seriously. Then, one day I finally pulled of the ground! The rest went on autopilot, and it became a legendary problem, one that’s much more technical than Slapshot.”
Interesting that Paul and I both pulled off the ground on our first effort. In fact Paul did this in his tennis shoes. I find it hard to believe that pulling off the ground in this fashion was any challenge whatsoever for “the fabulous Holloway” Is it possible that something broke? Is it possible that 30 years ago the ground was higher, and Holloway pulled off the ground reaching high to the underclings?
Sherman Exposed by John Sherman seems to suggest that this might be the case.
“The most difficult problem on the Eliminator…is the Meathook.” “Unless otherwise told, climbers seriously eyeing the problem assume it to start off the dishwasher-size block that gives Left Eliminator its hazardous landing” There is no question as to the starting holds (perhaps the underclings), only to where the feet start.
Benningfields guidebook isnt’ much help, but the online guide at Drtopo.com suggests that a hold has broken.
I would love to hear what people have to say. Does any one know for certain? If these problems are going to have such a reputation, then we should all agree on what it would take to repeat them.
Here is a quick video of Mike Feinberg on Golden Rows of Flows V10 or V11. First ascent by none other than Dave Graham himself. This problem is near the El Jorges. Very atypical for the Park but nevertheless a nice boulder.
Saturday I went to the Horsetooth Hang with Olson, Tyler, Paul, Nick Sherman, Chris Danielson, Seth Allred and others. It was a very windy day. My main goal for being there was to help out with the Five Ten shoe demo. I figured that maybe with the comp. going on we could get some people to try Meathook, an unrepeated contrivance put up by Jim Holloway in the 70s.
Horsetooth Reservoir doesn’t see quite the attention it saw 30 years ago from the bouldering elite. Today, the focus is on steep power problems, which Horsetooth has almost none. While the area was a crucial stepping stone in the development of modern bouldering, it has lagged behind as new alpine areas have come into vogue. I visit the area about once a year to try Moon Arete, a classic V10 put up by Ben Moon a while back.
Five Ten Power
We got warmed up and I nearly flashed the Kelly Traverse, a terrible V9 traverse on the Punk Rock boulder. I tried again and Cameron harrassed me into falling off again and rightfully so. I didn’t take much convincing to get me to move on.
Paul was psyched to give Meathook some effort. We headed up there and tried for a solid 45 minutes. Unfortunately, the quality of this problem is so poor it was very hard to stay motivated. It is certainly hard, but I think a tall climber would have a considerable advantage. It is exceptionally uncomfortable to climb on and I don’t imagine going back. I think the contrived nature (the dihedral being off), the poor rock quality and the awkward movement will keep this one unrepeated for a while. I heard one climber say “Worst problem ever.”
Paul Robinson on Meathook
I walked around the corner and did the Mammen Traverse V9 in a few goes. While this is not a very good problem either, it does have some cool holds and fun moves. By this time I was quite tired but threw myself at Moon Arete a bit. I would love to go back when it is colder and finish that one off. I did snap some pictures of Tyler doing it justice.
Moon Arete
“I kept my foot on”
Rolson on Left Eliminator
I have had some very memorable experiances at Horsetooth. The Talent Scout Roof was my first V6. I climbed Right Eliminator for the first time 7 years ago under a gorgeous CO sunset. And the Pinch Overhang still awaits. I think the motivation was a little low having to sacrifice a day in the mountains, but I had fun with my friends.
