Poudre Canyon
29 10 2007Sunday I went to the Poudre Canyon with Angela. I slept in and we didn’t get up there until about 1:30. I was tired from the day before and hoped I could do one problem, the Cloudwalker crack. Dave Graham did the first ascent and underclinged his way out the massive roof. New beta has been found but I think this remains a classic problem on good granite. The first move is quite intimidating, as a jagged talus pit threatens below. I had climbed on this a few weeks ago and had the beta figured out. I sent it today with a bit of work. Dave originally graded it V12 but I think that V10 is appropriate. Here is some video to start your Monday off right.
Afterwords, I made quick work of Paul Robinsons new problem Public Property V11, which climbs the face to the right of Scarface. The crux revolves around a hard move to a very small crimp and another tough move to a bad pinch. It was getting late and Angela gave me 15 minutes to try and do it. “One more try” I said. Famous last words, but this time it was all I needed. Also congrats to another midwesterner Chris Craft who sent Canopener V10! Psyched on a nice weekend.
werd. always wondered why this line didn’t receive more attention… it’s always struck me as super dope… way better than that damn canopener… excellent job to mr. craft, though… accomplishing the impossible!
I agree, very classic but no one seems to bother with it.
i waved back to angie.
those are cool names for the problems…nice 1 paul, if u r reading this
nice climbs again jamie…RESTTT
Jamie-
Do you by any chance know if Brian Capps is heading east right now? My roomate and I were bouldering in our gym in Kansas City tonight, and we sware he walked in to ask someone if they knew where a certain bouldering area was further east in Missouri. Just thought it was weird to see Brian Capps in our gym….cause you know, the rock is so plentiful and awesome out here in Missouri….HA!
Oh and if it was in fact him, do you know where he is headed? Soill, Arkansas…?
You did see Brian in the gym. He is on his way to St. Louis to climb in So Ill for a bit.
Wow, its extremely odd that I just ran across this page I guess. I was just climbing at Jackson Falls in So Ill last weekend and saw Brian Capps there. He was busy making some quick work of Voice, a classic .12d. He got it on second go if I remember correctly.
Is this the original start to Cloudwalker? I did this start but there were certainly more crack holds below. Yesterday I did the start from the lowest crack holds. It seemed to be the logical start, but a good bit harder. Does anyone know if this has been done, who has done it, or where Dave started the problem? There are enough different places to step off the ground onto this boulder that there are several possible starts.
Blake, I started where Dave started. Your new start is an FA as far as I know.
I talked to Pat and he said that there are two versions of this crack, Cloudwalker(V11/12) and FUDG (V9). His description for FUDG was 1 hard crossover into the crack (meaning the jams) with good feet (I assume he means that big ledge out right), starting just before the landing turns to shit. That is the problem me and Jer did when we were up there with Blake, and unless I’m missing something it is the problem that is in the video (nice send BTW Jamie, smooth). Pat said Dave Grahm added a few narly moves to the bottom of that, and that is Cloudwalker. So Blake may or may not have done an FA, but most certainly pulled down a beutiful problem. I’m not dissing on anyone here, I just think that preserving the history of areas, what has and has not been done, is important to us climbers.