Red Feather Lakes

Posted on 28. Oct, 2007 by in Red Feather Lakes


Friday night I drove up to Ft. Collins with my good friend Brian Capps. We spent the night at Ben Scott’s house, who was eager to show us some new problems in Red Feather.

Saturday was cold and damp. The road into Red Feather was wet and the mood was skeptical. When we arrived at the first boulder everything was dry. The temperature was around 34 degrees and a thick fog hung in the air. We slowly got warmed up and I did a very nice V11 roof problem called The Chopper put up by Chuck Fryberger in a few tries. I had tried it last year at the end of a long day with poor beta. We then played around on some really fun variations and waited for Andre and Olson to join us.

Brian Capps on the Chopper, a V11 roof.

We drove further into the woods and the road was more rough. Finally Ben pulled off and showed us his finds. First up was Andy Warhol, a classic problem put up by Chuck as well. This is really an amazing problem, and one of best I have climbed in a while. The problem starts on two opposing sidepulls and does a sick dyno to an edge. From there some tension climbing leads to a stab out right to a crimp.

Andre in the thick of things

The problem finishes with a nice mantle.

I got up through the lower section to the mantel in a few goes and my fingers went numb. I tried everything but couldn’t seem to figure out the cryptic sequence and step up on top. After what felt like an eternity I had to jump off. Everything was ok, until the screaming barfies (Source: Refers to the feeling of such an action; “screaming” from the pain of the situation and “barfies” from the vomiting that can ensue. Context: After climbing on ice-covered mountains, blood rushes very quickly back into the arms of climbers. It is known be to be so painful that it causes the climber to vomit as a reaction to the pain.) hit like a truck. I dry heaved several times and tears were in my eyes all to the amusement of the group. I rested about an hour and did the top out once and sent it in proper form. Brian followed suit about an hour later.


Ben harrassed me into trying a tall problem called Bob Ross Arete V3. It was scary and it took a few tries to get it. Afterwords I renamed it the Bob Choss Arete. It was a really fun day with my good friends in the mountains. Here is some of the sports action from today. Enjoy.

Filmed by Brian Capps

Update: Last year I put a few days into trying the FA of a sick sport route. After falling off after the crux, Chuck did the FA and named it Marylin Monre. Consensus seemed to fall at 5.14a. New beta has been found it looks to be in the 5.13b/c range. I would be very psyched to go finish this amazing line.

10 Responses to “Red Feather Lakes”

  1. campusman

    28. Oct, 2007

    nice climbs
    stay focused on even harder stuff

  2. jacob

    28. Oct, 2007

    i like the foggy pictures of the feather, and andy warhol looks sweet.

    whenever i see pictures of the feather i have to extend an invitation. i’ve been developing some new sectors just east of the feather. the area goes from south of parvin lake all the way to the boy scout road(west of the ceremonies). about five square miles, so far 250-300 problems, and it’s 50 min from the fort. would enjoy giving a tour or i would even let you use my personal guide that i’ve put together. i’m just dying to get somebody elses blood on these rocks.
    if you’re interested my name’s jacob and you can drop me a line at
    i’m also looking to get some information on all of the beautifyul sectors that the tendon crew has put up. i don’t know any of you guys but would love to get together to share some of this rfl goodness. i get out four or five days a week and live 15 min from the ceremonies. the invitation stands waiting.

  3. Chuck

    28. Oct, 2007

    Nice Job Jamie!

  4. jamie

    28. Oct, 2007

    Chuck, these problems were great! thanks for your contribution. awesome.

  5. big poppa chosscrush

    29. Oct, 2007

    awesome, jamie. nice sends! and yes, yes: bennett and crew find all wicked climbs… and chuckles nabs all FAs !!!

  6. climbingnarc

    29. Oct, 2007

    Really cool looking problem in the videos. Presumably the potential for more moderate lines is plentiful at RFL as well?

  7. jamie

    29. Oct, 2007

    the bulk of the problems at rfl are moderate, but there are some really nice hard things as well. classic V6 to the left of warhol. i think when all is said and done there maybe a 1000 problems there. its just really spread out and people aren’t very psyched on the exploratory nature of the area.

  8. climbingnarc

    30. Oct, 2007

    Yeah, if RFL was in say WI the exploratory nature wouldn’t be a big deal but with all the other options in the frontrange I guess exploring isn’t high on everyone’s list.

  9. jacob

    31. Oct, 2007

    i think that the feather just feels spread out and overwhelming because of all of the potential. most of the recent developers cherry pick the besst lines from a vast area leaving tons of easy and moderate problems in between. once people start tying up the loose ends, more gems will appear and i think that the feather could come together as a vast and easily accessible area for boulderers and rope jockeys of all shapes and sizes.

  10. Eliott

    08. Nov, 2007

    pretty much kicking myself in the butt for leaving Colorado. Anyone want to let me crash on their couch for a year or so??

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