The Wheel of Life

Posted on 19. Oct, 2007 by in News

fred3.jpg
Fred Nicole in the Hollow Mountain Cave
photo Simon Carter

There is very nice footage of Chris Webb-Parsons doing the second ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Wheel of Life in the Grampians of Australia. Is this the hardest stretch of rock ever climbed? I really feel this deserves a route grade but people continue to call it V16. Chris is obviously very talented, but it would be interesting to see what he would do on pure power problems like Jade, From Dirt Grows the Flowers, or anything put up by John Gaskins.

The Wheel of Life, Grampians, Australia

10 Responses to “The Wheel of Life”

  1. climbingnarc

    19. Oct, 2007

    Agreed on the grading front. For whatever reason there doesn’t seem to be much discussion about this, the V16 tag has just been accepted. No matter what grade you want to give (V16, 5.15abcd?) it is definitely an awesome effort to link-up all of these difficult problems albeit the hardest problem is “only” V12.

    The layout of the existing problems in the HMC seems a bit strange though. Cool to see the logical line being done at such a high degree of difficulty. You can see a rough topo of the cave here to see what I am talking about:

    http://www.australianbouldering.com/guides/grampians/hollow_mtn_cave.html

  2. Nick

    19. Oct, 2007

    Nice juggy traverse. Might as well take a nap in the middle of the climb.

    However, props to the guy for the endurance necessary to link all those moves, not to mention for the amazing quality of the climb.

    You know what I think should define the line between a boulder problem and something else? When chalking and/or resting becomes a unnecessary option.

  3. andi

    20. Oct, 2007

    chalkbag dabbed. no valid ascent. hueco red card.
    big up the 2006 dabbing-crew.

    jamie let me know when you are in europe. i will have loads of time to rockclimb from february to april.

    andi

  4. wade david

    23. Oct, 2007

    JE check these boulders out! Right Click and download the Holy Cross trail video.

    http://www.petefagerlin.com/video_gallery.htm

  5. Björn

    23. Oct, 2007

    We’re actually trying to introduce “boulder-routes” on 8a.nu. A “BR” is a boulder that requires endurance rather than pure power. “The wheel of life” would get an 8Cc+ grade. It’s very difficult to draw a line here though. What do we do with very short routes? Should the use of a rope really be the deciding factor? I don’t think so…

  6. paul

    23. Oct, 2007

    Should we really make everything even more complicated ? I don’t think so…

  7. climbingnarc

    23. Oct, 2007

    agreed

  8. Björn

    24. Oct, 2007

    Yeah, I guess you have a point there… what about less complicated? Say short or long climbs, roped or not.

  9. big poppa chosscrush

    24. Oct, 2007

    if the crux of wheel is v12, and according to graham the crux of realization is v8, then give wheel the highest current route grade, and reverse that back to a bouldering grade rough equivalent as folks love to do, which should be the highest current demarcation, and voila: v16 ???

    certainly looks way more fun than jade… jade = pain management + animal power.

    v7s do not cause this kind of confusion, usually. i say, just do v7s.

  10. elweed

    25. Oct, 2007

    the whole uncompaghre plateau looks like that.you’ve never been to unaweep canyon? every one out of twenty bocks is solid but when they are the climbing is good. endless potential up endless canyons.
    but it can’t hold a candle to the feather

Leave a Reply