The Automator

Posted on 14. Oct, 2007 by B3 in Bouldering Videos

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Long’s Peak

Saturday the forecast was for rain and snow in the afternoon. We hoped to get up to the Park early and beat it. The alarm was set for 7:30AM. I often check the Estes Park webcams as the weather can be quite different from that in Boulder. A low cloud hung over the Front Range but Estes showed blue skies. Off we drove up 36 and the weather got better with each passing mile. The mountains are beautifully dusted with snow and the hills are sprinkled with golden leaves. Fall is here and it is a wonderful time to be a rock climber.

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Lake Hiayaha

My objective was to finish off the Automator V13, which I have written much about. Low clouds moved in and hung in the air. I warmed up quickly and gave it a solid burn from the start, falling off the last move. The crux hold felt sticky. I rested for about ten minutes and gave another effort. This time everything was right and I stuck the last hold very well. The rest was over quickly. I am so psyched to finish this problem!!! I really feel this is a true Colorado crimping testpiece. For me, it is important to try and repeat the outstanding established lines in an area, at all grades. For Chaos Canyon this is one of them. Here is the video, uncut, for your enjoyment.

Only about an hour after I sent, the snow came down hard. Everything was soaking wet and we scampered down the hill. The forecast is for 10-18 inches in the Park and this maybe the end of the season.

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8 Responses to “The Automator”

  1. mervo

    14. Oct, 2007

    nice work jamie, congrads on finishin the season strong. hope to see you and Angie up the poudre or feather this winter/fall. Seth

  2. entropy

    14. Oct, 2007

    nice send!

  3. adam s

    14. Oct, 2007

    hello nothin but sunshine- jamie sends and god throws confetti

  4. big poppa chosscrush

    14. Oct, 2007

    awesome to hear that you finished it off before the snow hit. some of my most clutch sends have come from tapping into a strange energy i feel when i’m racing a storm. everything seems to click. glad it did for you to finish off a season right!

    it’s a very indescribable feeling, being the last kid at the playground… everything’s finally quiet and still and there’s a comfort and fulfillment walking home, knowing you owned it that day

  5. big poppa chosscrush

    14. Oct, 2007

    ps: it always makes me laugh when i see someone reeling in a project and they start having a big of a smile or smirk when they pass the crux KNOWING the send is going down…

    even when the last moves of a project of mine are easy, my face is all bugged out w/ huge eyes and my mind is screaming YOU’RE GOING TO DIE !!!111 DON’T MESS THIS UP YOU FOOT MIGHT POP OFF WATCH OUT YOU IDIOT OH #@$@! YOU’RE CLOSE NOW DON’T PUMP OUT YOU’RE PUMPING OUT I TOLD YOU NOT TO DO THAT YOU’RE FORGETTING THE BETA THIS PART IS EASY WHAT’S WRONG WITH YOU FOOL DOOOONNNTTTTT MESSSS UPPPPPPP !!!!!!

  6. brian

    15. Oct, 2007

    congrats jamie, nice work

  7. peter b

    15. Oct, 2007

    Way to go Jamie–Driving north to Fort Collins this morning, it does look as though the Park is closed to bouldering for a while.

  8. All Climbing » Climbing Video: The Automator (V13)

    20. Oct, 2007

    [...] Emerson climbs Automator (V13) in Colorado (via Climbing [...]

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