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Petzl Rock Trip

Posted on 12. Oct, 2007 by in Updates

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The Petzl Rock Trip has made its way to Slade, Ky and the Red River Gorge. When I lived in Michigan I probably spent 25 weekends down there sport climbing and bouldering. There is so much rock down there and it is all very high quality. In my mind, the Red is a world class area, and hopefully with all the strong climbers there (Dani Andrada, DG, Daniel Woods, Sean McColl) some new routes will be opened up at a high standard. The big news so far is that Sean has made the first flash ascent of a 5.14b on American soil. The route is Thanatopsis (Dave Hume FA) at the Motherlode. Thanatopsis was the first 5.14 in the Red and Dave graded it sandbagged 5.14a. I am looking forward to seeing what else gets done.

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The Motherlode

In other news Tony Lamiche (who made a very impressive one day ascent of Ode to the Modern Man V14) and DG have left Colorado, and Jade still only has three ascents. Lamiche only tried Jade briefly. It is rumoured that he was not impressed at all with Colorado. I will be back to the Park on Sat., to try and finish the Automator.

3 Responses to “Petzl Rock Trip”

  1. Jean C. Vinel

    13. Oct, 2007

    Hi. Congratulations on your impressive blog. On his French Website Lamiche did say that he was very disappointed with RMNP –not with the climbers, he was actually taken in by their motivation. He also added that Jade was a world class problem –except that you can only give it a few tries at at time because one hold butchers your hand. Note that Lamiche has had a bad back and was seeing a chiropractor while he was Colorado.

  2. campusman

    13. Oct, 2007

    I have heard 5’14c, Dave coulda been right on with his grade of 14a at first. (Sandbagging is done on purpose, right? its known that Dave grades stiff). A few holds have broken since his ascent, including an important undercling, and the previous edge to that broke in half. pretty sure its no longer 5’12d for the first 4 bolts.

  3. big poppa chosscrush

    14. Oct, 2007

    many folks are turned off by the feeling that they are just climbing out of holes at rmnp. the movement on the problems is typically insane, but the lines cannot compare aeshtetically to chucks of stone sitting in some lush alpine european meadow ala graham’s dosage segments.

    many folks think gritstone is fugly; aestetically unworthy of the injury potential. however, some are enamored with the features, movement, and commitment necessary to climb there. i see the park in a similar light. the movement, features, and environment are incredible and make up for the aesthetic shortcommings of talus bouldering.

    also: while i’m never moved by photos of colorado roped routes, i always find myself psyched on photos of the red. something about a HUGE wall with features and steepness looks very compelling to me. similar to gunks trad and the exasperator cract as squeemish. maybe i need to see a shrink? skeletons in my closet emerging w/ harnesses. OOOOHHH NNOOOOOO !

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