Posted on 04. Oct, 2007 by in Updates

Andre DeFelice has made the 10th ascent of Circadian Rhythm V13 in the Poudre Canyon. He is the first person from Ft. Collins to send the problem. Sounds like he has been climbing alot up there lately. Circadian is one of the oldest, least repeated, most attempted and most amazing V13s in Colorado. This is what Paul Robinson said on after he sent the problem “if this is V13, then every other V13 I’ve done in Colorado needs to be downgraded.” Andre is super motivated and has a great attitude. Nice work.

In other news Scott Blunk has written a comment which needs to be placed in the forefront about what he knows about Meathook and Holloway. I have reposted it here for all to see.

“I have been familiar with this problem for over 30 years, here is my two cents.
First, the initial right undercling hold did break and was glued back by Sherman. It is slightly better than before. The difference doesn’t matter, the first move pulling off the ground is indeed easy. I don’t know why Holloway indicated “pulling off the ground” was the crux, the sequence he related to us made it clear that matching in the underclings was the crux. Perhaps he misspoke during the interview, maybe Andy Mann can clear that up?
The sequence Holloway told us he used was to pull on, reach the upper right undercling first (as an undercling, not a gaston), reposition the feet, match into the left undercling and then up to the big horizontal using the meathook hold as a sidepull with the left hand.
As to whether or not Holloway actually did Meathook, I am sure he did. I climbed with Jim several times in the late 70’s. At that time I and others were able to do V-9ish problems within 5-6 sessions. Jim was much, much stronger than anyone else at that time. His fingers were phenomenal, he could hang on really small holds easily. I believe he had the physical tools to do Meathook and certainly the persistence and desire. I have seen one other person, Chris Hill, who almost matched in the underclings, so I am certain the problem is doable the way Holloway did it.
As far as Dave Twinam’s method, it is significantly different. He used a combination of stemming and taking the right undercling as a gaston. His method is hard as hell and a valid ascent. I think the issue is whether or not anyone can repeat Holloway’s method.
I will be happy to meet anyone who interested to show what I know about the problem, just shoot me an email. I think it would be fantastic to get some of you strong lads on it and see a repeat this winter!”

Scott Blunk

I can’t thank Scott enough for his contribution. This is exactly the kind of first hand information I was looking for.

14 Responses to “Congratulations!”

  1. Andre

    04. Oct, 2007

    Thanks for the shout Jamie.

  2. climbingnarc

    04. Oct, 2007

    Does this information alter your impression of the problem at all Jamie?

  3. chuffer

    04. Oct, 2007

    Awesome post Scott. Your beta may demystify the sequence.

  4. big poppa chosscrush

    04. Oct, 2007

    beta is invalid unless it makes this problem v7. in fact, if the problem is not climbable at v7, IT is invalid.

  5. campusman

    05. Oct, 2007

    UPGRADE TO V XIV!!!!!!!

  6. big poppa chosscrush

    05. Oct, 2007

    campy: it doesn’t have enough pitches for that, fool!

  7. Eliott

    06. Oct, 2007

    Hey jamie, do you know who got the first ascent on Bulgin’ out and maybe when they did it??


  8. jamie

    06. Oct, 2007

    as far as I know it was Ty, this spring, but someone could have done it earlier.

  9. campusman

    06. Oct, 2007

    this site is knot about that attitude…unlike others, play gneiss

  10. Eliott

    07. Oct, 2007

    probably.  When I scrubbed it it was obvious it had never been climbed.  Too many footholds that would have been useful flaked off.  Thomas and I worked it for a minute but never went back and sent.  Really liked that right hand sloper. 

  11. big poppa chosscrush

    09. Oct, 2007

    does the fact that i call my grandma ‘fool’ make you feel warmer?


  12. thevealchop

    11. Oct, 2007

    This problem is B3 bouldering at its best/worst.

  13. jamie

    11. Oct, 2007

    don’t you have a magazine to worry about?

  14. campusman

    16. Oct, 2007

    you do that to her, no way!!

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