Horsetooth Hang

Posted on 01. Oct, 2007 by in Front Range

Horsetooth Reservoir

Saturday I went to the Horsetooth Hang with Olson, Tyler, Paul, Nick Sherman, Chris Danielson, Seth Allred and others. It was a very windy day. My main goal for being there was to help out with the Five Ten shoe demo. I figured that maybe with the comp. going on we could get some people to try Meathook, an unrepeated contrivance put up by Jim Holloway in the 70s.
Horsetooth Reservoir doesn’t see quite the attention it saw 30 years ago from the bouldering elite. Today, the focus is on steep power problems, which Horsetooth has almost none. While the area was a crucial stepping stone in the development of modern bouldering, it has lagged behind as new alpine areas have come into vogue. I visit the area about once a year to try Moon Arete, a classic V10 put up by Ben Moon a while back.

Five Ten Power

We got warmed up and I nearly flashed the Kelly Traverse, a terrible V9 traverse on the Punk Rock boulder. I tried again and Cameron harrassed me into falling off again and rightfully so. I didn’t take much convincing to get me to move on.
Paul was psyched to give Meathook some effort. We headed up there and tried for a solid 45 minutes. Unfortunately, the quality of this problem is so poor it was very hard to stay motivated. It is certainly hard, but I think a tall climber would have a considerable advantage. It is exceptionally uncomfortable to climb on and I don’t imagine going back. I think the contrived nature (the dihedral being off), the poor rock quality and the awkward movement will keep this one unrepeated for a while. I heard one climber say “Worst problem ever.”

Paul Robinson on Meathook

I walked around the corner and did the Mammen Traverse V9 in a few goes. While this is not a very good problem either, it does have some cool holds and fun moves. By this time I was quite tired but threw myself at Moon Arete a bit. I would love to go back when it is colder and finish that one off. I did snap some pictures of Tyler doing it justice.

Moon Arete

“I kept my foot on”

Rolson on Left Eliminator

I have had some very memorable experiances at Horsetooth. The Talent Scout Roof was my first V6. I climbed Right Eliminator for the first time 7 years ago under a gorgeous CO sunset. And the Pinch Overhang still awaits. I think the motivation was a little low having to sacrifice a day in the mountains, but I had fun with my friends.

2 Responses to “Horsetooth Hang”

  1. campusman

    01. Oct, 2007

    w8rd, now lets see 1 granite video @ mt. heavens.

  2. campusman

    06. Oct, 2007

    so the beta says, paul should not be doing that undercling gaston thing
    he just needs to be under clinging

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