Archive for October, 2007

Poudre Canyon

Posted on 29. Oct, 2007 by .

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Sunday I went to the Poudre Canyon with Angela. I slept in and we didn’t get up there until about 1:30. I was tired from the day before and hoped I could do one problem, the Cloudwalker crack. Dave Graham did the first ascent and underclinged his way out the massive roof. New beta has [...]

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Red Feather Lakes

Posted on 28. Oct, 2007 by .

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Friday night I drove up to Ft. Collins with my good friend Brian Capps. We spent the night at Ben Scott’s house, who was eager to show us some new problems in Red Feather. Saturday was cold and damp. The road into Red Feather was wet and the mood was skeptical. When we arrived at [...]

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Moraine Park

Posted on 26. Oct, 2007 by .

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Yesterday I went to Moraine Park with Olson and Angela. We met up briefly with Seth Allred and Chad Greedy and then later with Matt Tschol and Andre DeFelice. Moraine Park is also known as Arch Rocks. It is a mile hike from the Fern Lake Trail head on a flat trail along a gorgeous [...]

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The Wheel of Life

Posted on 19. Oct, 2007 by .

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Fred Nicole in the Hollow Mountain Cave photo Simon Carter There is very nice footage of Chris Webb-Parsons doing the second ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Wheel of Life in the Grampians of Australia. Is this the hardest stretch of rock ever climbed? I really feel this deserves a route grade but people continue to call [...]

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It’s Official

Posted on 19. Oct, 2007 by .

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Starting after Thanksgiving, Angela and I will be traveling for an extended period. I will be headed to New England (Rumney, Pawtuckaway etc) to start things off, and then after Christmas we will be in the South (LRC, HP40, etc) followed by either Hueco or Bishop. This will all be a warm up for two [...]

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Jaws II

Posted on 15. Oct, 2007 by .

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Vasya Vorotnikov has climbed the Dave Graham route Jaws at Rumney on the Waimea Wall. His is the first repeat after a crucial hold broke and he has suggested the grade of 5.15a (he has also changed the name to Jaws II). If the grade sticks this will be the hardest route east of the [...]

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The Automator

Posted on 14. Oct, 2007 by .

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Long’s Peak Saturday the forecast was for rain and snow in the afternoon. We hoped to get up to the Park early and beat it. The alarm was set for 7:30AM. I often check the Estes Park webcams as the weather can be quite different from that in Boulder. A low cloud hung over the [...]

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Petzl Rock Trip

Posted on 12. Oct, 2007 by .

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The Petzl Rock Trip has made its way to Slade, Ky and the Red River Gorge. When I lived in Michigan I probably spent 25 weekends down there sport climbing and bouldering. There is so much rock down there and it is all very high quality. In my mind, the Red is a world class [...]

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Triple Crown Results

Posted on 09. Oct, 2007 by .

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Here are the results from the first Triple Crown of the year, Hound Ears in Boone, NC. 1.Paul Robinson 2.Nick Vosbein 3.Ryan Roden 1.Jill Church 2.Kate Mcginnis 3.Tomoko Ogawa The next event is HP40. Check out their site at http://triplecrownbouldering.com/ The south is one of the most amazing areas in America, and I always look [...]

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The Automator

Posted on 07. Oct, 2007 by .

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This fall I have scraped my previous plans due to lack of time outside. I have decided to put all of my effort into the Automator V13. The Automator was put up in 2000 by Dave Graham. It has 11 ascents to my knowledge. The crux move revolves around a very hard move off of [...]

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