9.11.2001
Six years ago I was living in Michigan and decided to head out on a two week climbing trip to check out the new boulders in RMNP. I had no information whatsoever except for a couple magazine articles. I got out some old maps and hiking guides and quickly found Lake Haiyaha. My plan was to drive up to the Park, hike around until I saw the boulders and start rock climbing. September 9th was my first day bouldering in the Park and it began at the Suzuki Boulder. I climbed the fun V3 and V5 on the backside. I was ready to put my skill to the test against some of the harder problems. I went there with my friend Dave Ludders and he showed me this little V9 roof on the front side.
We both did it in an hour or so. I was so psyched. This was the hardest thing I had ever climbed, and only one step away from the much coveted V10. There was a bit of snow on the ground and with a good morning session we were ready to head up to Chaos.
The hike was refreshing with all the new snow. We walked around for a long time before we found anything. Finally we came upon European. I remember thinking that it looked impossibly hard. We walked over the little rise and saw the Bushpilot. I had never seen such an amazing problem! I tried this a few times and got totally shut down. Will Lemaire was trying it as well and I was very impressed with how good a climber he was. Funny how some things never change.
He and Rick Vitaka showed us around and I had such a good time. Gang Bang Arete was a good project and I spent the next several days working and finally sending it.
I met Dave Graham, Jason Kehl and Chad Greedy. I remember thinking that this was a perfect place for bouldering. Impeccable rock, hard problems and an amazing setting. Two days later everything changed. But the more things change the more they stay the same. 6 years later, to the day, there I was at Gang Bang Arete with Chad and Dave, trying hard, laughing and living.
September 12th, 2007 at 3:49 am
As usual, good stuff Jamie.
September 12th, 2007 at 3:51 am
jamie - very rad - in the last 6 years you went from climbing v8 to downrating v14s - very very inspiring
September 12th, 2007 at 12:22 pm
nice post, very well written. thanks for posting in general, always a good read
September 12th, 2007 at 2:00 pm
Great story Jamie. Site has been great as of late. See you soon my friend.
September 12th, 2007 at 4:20 pm
The real question is, how did you get so strong living in Michigan??
September 12th, 2007 at 4:41 pm
It’s post’s like this that keep bringing me back.
September 13th, 2007 at 4:27 am
Nice post Jemerson.