B3bouldering.com

9.11.2001

Posted on 12. Sep, 2007 by B3 in Articles

Six years ago I was living in Michigan and decided to head out on a two week climbing trip to check out the new boulders in RMNP. I had no information whatsoever except for a couple magazine articles. I got out some old maps and hiking guides and quickly found Lake Haiyaha. My plan was to drive up to the Park, hike around until I saw the boulders and start rock climbing. September 9th was my first day bouldering in the Park and it began at the Suzuki Boulder. I climbed the fun V3 and V5 on the backside. I was ready to put my skill to the test against some of the harder problems. I went there with my friend Dave Ludders and he showed me this little V9 roof on the front side.

We both did it in an hour or so. I was so psyched. This was the hardest thing I had ever climbed, and only one step away from the much coveted V10. There was a bit of snow on the ground and with a good morning session we were ready to head up to Chaos.
The hike was refreshing with all the new snow. We walked around for a long time before we found anything. Finally we came upon European. I remember thinking that it looked impossibly hard. We walked over the little rise and saw the Bushpilot. I had never seen such an amazing problem! I tried this a few times and got totally shut down. Will Lemaire was trying it as well and I was very impressed with how good a climber he was. Funny how some things never change.

He and Rick Vitaka showed us around and I had such a good time. Gang Bang Arete was a good project and I spent the next several days working and finally sending it.

I met Dave Graham, Jason Kehl and Chad Greedy. I remember thinking that this was a perfect place for bouldering. Impeccable rock, hard problems and an amazing setting. Two days later everything changed. But the more things change the more they stay the same. 6 years later, to the day, there I was at Gang Bang Arete with Chad and Dave, trying hard, laughing and living.