The Approaching Fall

Posted on 11. Sep, 2007 by in RMNP

Long’s Peak

Saturday I went to Chaos Canyon with Angela. The air was as crisp as it could be this time of year. I was psyched to head to Upper but things would not be. Angela has been trying European Human Being V12. She has done the problem in two parts now. Here are some great pics from Ryan Olson.

European Human Being V12

Angie Payne bearing down.

I hung around Lower until the evening and then my first good session of the year on the Automater V13. In my opinion this is the last classic hard problem I have to finish in Lower Chaos. Although I will admit it is very low, and a traverse, the rock is incredible and in my mind holds a special place for its difficulty. I remember long ago reading about how it shut down Ben Moon, Jerry Moffat, Malcolm Smith and Chris Sharma. (Check out for some great old school photos of Malc, Tommy Caldwell, Chris and Dave, ignore the intro photo and click on climbing) The problem is long and continuous. With my beta it is 13 moves. It is naturally divided into two sections, the beginning boulder problem, which is probably V10 on its own, and then end sequence which I would put at solid V11. Saturday I got through the beginning section. I did all the moves but the last one and I was very close. I am sticking with Dave’s original beta instead of the cross through which has become so popular now. I think the whole problem, particulary the end, is easier if you are short. Anyways, I was psyched on my effort and am looking forward to putting more time in.

“Conditions are about to get really good, before they get really bad.” Dave Graham

Sunday was a pretty chill day. Olson and Brian Camp were at Veritas and I stopped there and warmed up on a fun little V9 called Stripes. It starts on two opposing sidepulls and jumps to a good edge. We went up to Upper and I tried Don’t Get Too Greedy V13 but I got pretty shut down. I was visibly shaking and that is not a good sign. It was a little frustrating after having done all the moves quickly and gotten close to doing it. We went back down to Lower and ran into some friends Chad, Ty, Dave Marquess, Nick Sherman, Caroline etc. Isaac Calderio and Dave Graham were there as well, and I hadn’t seen either in a while. Dave sounds psyched as usual. In other news, Tony Lamiche is here and had a nice warm up day at Mt. Evans, sending Clear Blue Skies V12 and Mental Pollution SDS V11 in a few goes. I am sure there will be more news to come from his stay.

2 Responses to “The Approaching Fall”

  1. campusman

    11. Sep, 2007

    no pinkies again…so much weaker

  2. brian

    11. Sep, 2007

    nices pics olson

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