Momento V16 sees second ascent

Posted on 05. Sep, 2007 by in News

Bernhard Schwaiger has made the second ascent of Momento V16, put up several years ago by Bernd Zangerl. Momento is in Silvretta, Austria. The problem climbs out a steep overhang on some crimps with a huge dyno off a terrible hold to finish. It is featured in the movie Momento. Check out the video at www.schwaigerbrothers.com.

27 Responses to “Momento V16 sees second ascent”

  1. Nobody

    06. Sep, 2007

    Does he really do it?! You only see when he jumps and then suddenly he graps the top with both his hands…

  2. christian

    06. Sep, 2007

    There is a nice vid available on http://www.schwaigerbrothers.com
    It would be cool if some of you guys rocking RMNP came over and send Euro stuff?
    What would DW. etc. say about Memento?
    Would be interesting

  3. big poppa chosscrush

    06. Sep, 2007

    is it memento like the movie? either way, i heard it’s one of the best mike hickey v6s in the world!

  4. jamie

    06. Sep, 2007

    Daniel is on his way to Europe right now. He will be there for a year or so and I would be very shocked if there was anything that stopped him.

  5. Linus

    06. Sep, 2007

    Is DW coming to Font?

  6. jamie

    06. Sep, 2007

    He has mentioned it.

  7. campusman

    06. Sep, 2007

    is je really the strongest old dude in the world?

    nice job on 8a.nu…finally

  8. James hickey

    06. Sep, 2007

    i dont think that guy sent it….the video makes it look like he does not do it….B.S. i say…..

  9. stirringthepot

    07. Sep, 2007

    i think with a boulder problem of this high a standard it is important that it is obvious the person has done the problem. i.e you see them do the crux move. preferably it is 1 take with no cuts.
    it is especially important to see the move done in a boulder problem like memento where it is moderate climbing to 1 ultra hard move.

  10. campusman

    07. Sep, 2007

    THAT IS A FAKE VIDEO HE DIDNT GO WITH TWO HANDS(DOUBLE D) DURING THE JUMP, BUT THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN HIS FEET ARE ON THERE IS NO OUT OF CONTROL SWING, TWO HANDS ARE GRABBING THE LIP AND HE’S ALL CALM ABOUT IT, IF ANYONE SENT THAT MESS THEY SHOULD BE GOING APE ****

  11. campusman

    07. Sep, 2007

    my guess is that he did it, but couldnt repeat the jump for the video

  12. christian

    07. Sep, 2007

    Basically what you guys are doing here is fulfilling a classic stereotype I`v e always refused to believe in: Americans are self centered! Sorry guys, if you knew about the climbing that guy has done in Austria and would have considered for one second that Bernd Zangerl and others take him very serious and regard him as a friend, you wouldn`t be so quick in doubting what he has done. If he has climbed the problem again for a vid and done the jump maybe seperately-that happens all the time. DW, Paul Robinson, Dave and Chris are phenomenal climbers and I rate Chris to be the most inspiring in the world, but to start bitching about another climber sending a probable V16, being allegedly harder than much appreciated Jade is silly. Who are you James Hickey? I don`t see Jamie bitching around, neither see I DW or Paul. Why is it always the nobody-knows-them-guys that start talking crap?

  13. j.o.e.

    07. Sep, 2007

    why would some of you doubt that Berni sent this problem? because you didn’t see an unedited video? becuase he’s not 17 and american? nobody seems to doubt that ethan pringle climbed realization and i haven’t seen a video for that. i just think that it’s strange that such a big send brings no congratulations, only skepticism. save the conspiracy theories for the moon landing and just climb.

  14. campusman

    07. Sep, 2007

    why =video-fake send

    please read in full
    &
    its knot a stereotype, its a videotype

  15. big poppa chosscrush

    07. Sep, 2007

    foolish euros! you’ve fallen for the oldest american internet trick in the book: trolling to get a rise out of every one! or, at least i suspect that that is what is going on here…

    if a climber claims an ascent and his droogs said he did it, he must be given the credit… unless, of course, he is a frenchman.

  16. big poppa chosscrush

    07. Sep, 2007

    CONGRATULATIONS BERNI !!!!!!!!!!11111111111111

    hey: do any of you euros know of really fun climbs in the v3-9 range that do not ever require use of your left foot and do not have any crux moves above 12ft? if so, will you fly me to your local crag for the weekend?

    THANKS!

  17. stirringthepot

    07. Sep, 2007

    its all about track history. once you have seen someone in real life do something hard or in good video from this point on there is no doubt. for instance if dave or chris does something hard, there is no doubt because we have seen chris do many things hard and dave too in the past. ethan aswell which is why his ascent of realisation is undoubted.
    schwaiger on the other hand has never been seen do anything really hard before. so people are skeptical. you got to see the other point. some practically-unheard of guy repeats a v16 in short time. unfortunately in this day, doubt comes first.

  18. mervo

    07. Sep, 2007

    Damn. Sorry james has pissed some of you Euros off. Don’t let him speak for the majority of American climbers. If a climber says he’s done something, we should respect it, period. If he’s done it on vid, i see ZERO reason to question it. Thanks Jamie for all your hard work on your blog, and props for all your sendin.
    Seth

  19. Björn

    07. Sep, 2007

    “schwaiger on the other hand has never been seen do anything really hard before”. You have GOT to be kidding! Do your homework instead of this vulgar display of ignorance. Before Memento, he’s done two 8C’s, 13 8B+ and countless 8B’s, and here’s the thing MOST OF THEM ARE DOCUMENTED ON VIDEO.

  20. jizzler

    07. Sep, 2007

    im sorrry that i offended everybody i didnt mean to stir all this….i just thought the video didnt look like he made it…. thats all….im sorry…thats all….but memento is on such a high level you think you would have it seen from the actual ascent hopefully but props anyways…

  21. chuffer

    07. Sep, 2007

    you’ve been trolled … AGAIN.

  22. World's Strongest Brother-Bouldering-Team

    07. Sep, 2007

    I think more people would believe the send if it weren’t for the video footage. Sorry, but he is no where close to doing that move in the video, especially when you compare it with the footage of Bernd.

  23. campusman

    08. Sep, 2007

    CAMPUSMAN WINS!!!!!1111

  24. JC

    08. Sep, 2007

    What about Kheops SDS in Font (8C)?

  25. jamie

    09. Sep, 2007

    it will be interesting to see if DW will have the same success in font, but i am confident he will climb well on granite.

  26. Armin from Austria

    13. Oct, 2007

    hey guys,

    I usually never write stuff in forums and interfere with other people’s duscussions. Just liked the topic cuz I’ve lived in the states as well as in austria. further more, I’m in the movie business, also producing climbing movies.
    No doubt about bernies send although he probably did’n to the crux move for the video. A climber a profilic as one of the schweiger brothers has no need to claim a send he hasn’t actually done.

    Saubere Leistung Berni!

    PS: I still like you Americans! Cu in hueco next month

  27. Josh Erdahl

    05. Feb, 2011

    Bernd Zangerl rocked the crux move, and if you watch the movie to the end (the movie not a trailer) you would see that he does the crux move to the finish hold…the shot is complete, taken from the right hand side(stage right).

    Nuff said.

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