News

Posted on 17. Aug, 2007 by in News

Sean McColl has made the first flash ascent of Riddles in the Park V12, second flash ascent of Next Friday V11 and also climbed L. El Jorge V11 in one day. Nice effort. In fact news is happening at such a fast rate I’m having a hard time keeping up. Actually, maybe these V11 flashes and V13 sends aren’t so news worthy anymore. Anyways, Ty Landman has made the 4th ascent of Don’t Get Too Greedy V13, of course. Now that there are no more unrepeated problems in the Park, I wonder if the boys can put up a B3.

Interesting that in the first few years many of the problems in Chaos Canyon went unrepeated. It seems at the time the problems were too hard for the climbers. In those years, individual climbers stood out. Now everything is getting sent all the time, and the climbers have finally caught up. There is not so much one climber that stands out amoung the rest. This trend will probably continue for a while until someone jumps ahead. Maybe it will be Daniel or Ty or Paul or maybe someone no one has yet heard of.

In other news I had a very nice dinner at the OR Show with Brian Capps, The Chancellor Brothers, Nicros Nic and James Litz. Dave Chancellor is hilarious and I hadn’t seen James in almost 3 years! Sounds like he has been climbing and training very hard again. James came to Colorado in 2004 and did the second or third ascent to almost every single problem in Colorado V11 or harder in a month or so, not to mention the FA of Freaks of the Industry V13. At the time he was very far ahead of the curve. I climbed a few days with both him and Dave in 2004 and it was obvious that James was stronger. Don’t get me wrong, Dave is very impressive, but I saw what I saw. Maybe a trip to the park for him this year? Maybe Jade has five ascents by the end of this year and gets the downrate.

6 Responses to “News”

  1. Jacob

    19. Aug, 2007

    Interesting statement “I climbed a few days with both him and Dave in 2004 and it was obvious that James was stronger. “

  2. lee

    19. Aug, 2007

    Jamie – thanks for the update! I love your thinking – all very true words.

    keep up the good times

  3. brian

    20. Aug, 2007

    Aslan is unrepeated no? for now…

  4. jamie

    20. Aug, 2007

    you are correct but it is a 25 move traverse, not a power problem. It should probably just be graded a 5.14d route

  5. brian

    20. Aug, 2007

    True, I was just being difficult. It is pretty crazy to think that despite all the super-difficult problems that not a one of them has gone unrepeated. The prospect of Litz, Graham and Lamiche coming to CO this fall should be interesting…maybe someone can find something that takes it to the next level.

  6. cardboard_dog

    22. Aug, 2007

    You downgraded your own hardest send? f-ing PROUD.

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