B3bouldering.com

Yesterday Ange and I went to Lower Chaos after work. We didn’t leave Boulder until about 4pm. The weather looked threatening but we pushed on, all the way up to Tommy’s Arete. The black clouds were thick and swirling. I had just gotten my stuff out when the sky opened up. The hail was pounding down and a bolt of lightning hit the ridge above the lake. The flash and the thunder were instantaneous, and we knew it was time to get out. We ran back to the car soaking wet and drove back down the hill to Boulder. A little frustrating, but we had a nice session at CATS.

Tuesday we went for a hike in Bear Canyon and saw a very large black bear. He was in a clearing above the talus field and we followed him for about 20 minutes as he walked down the trail all the way to the Bongo Boulder. It seems the bears in the Flatirons are always more active this time of year.

One of my favourite sites on the web is Ben Moon’s www.moonclimbing.com. I have always liked the understated British style of climbing, with the empasis on difficulty, training and stiff grades. I think maybe some of the hardest things in the world are in the U.K. and certainly one of the strongest climbers, John Gaskins. Anyways there are some great videos to peruse. I recommend a visit.

Sunday I was tired from all the hiking the day before so I got a late start to Upper Chaos. I am just starting to get back into shape and I was psyched for Don’t Get Too Greedy V13 and Wildcat V12. First off was DGTG. I think this is a very classic problem. Possibly three stars. The problem starts on a jug and makes a tough move out left to a cool slopey hold. From there, a heel hook and the right hand moves into a small sharp unercling. It requires maximum tension to release the heel, and a fairly easy move to an amazing pinch grip. The next move is the crux, standing up to another pinch. It finishes out with a V6/7 called La Reve De Wills. I warmed up and did the stand up move. I then worked out the bottom moves and started trying from the start. In about 5 goes from the beginning I got to the stand up move but fell. It was a good day on a problem that is not typical for the park. Conditions were not so good so I am psyched to go back.
My buddy Daniel Woods was there as well. He and Ty have been trying a sick line to the left of Jade. The Terre de Seine of the Park. Daniel has put several days on this line and I would guess it is probably in the V14 or V15 range.

DW knows how to rock climb

I rested for a bit and then walked around the back side to try Wildcat V12. I haven’t given this one too much serious effort, always at the end of the day. Yesterday, I got through the hard bit and fell matching a greasy sloper. I am now ready to start giving it a good effort. It was a fun day with good friends and that more than anything gets me motivated!

Wildcat V12

In other news Kevin Jorgenson has made the third ascent of Ode to the Modern Man V14 at Mt. Evans. Only time will tell, but this maybe the benchmark for V14 in Colorado.

Saturday I went up to Chaos Canyon by myself. I was searching for new problems and my mission was to hike all the way to the end of the canyon. I started up toward Nymph Lake but busted off trail soon after the Bear Lake parking lot. I have previously hiked up Chaos Creek, which is the outlet for Lake Haiyaha. That route is very steep, very pretty and holds little in the way of rock climbing. This time I went to the next drainage south, following the stream to a marsh and a small pond. On the other side of the pond lies an amazing moderate.

From here I hiked up to the cutoff trail, into Chaos Canyon and the familiar path into “Upper Chaos”
I went to the meadow, and then up a small gulley on the north side of the canyon. There are hundreds of faces to look at, but alot of the boulders were small and the rock was broken. I was headed for some big boulders I had looked at three years ago. I finally made it to a nice cluster after about 30 min of steep scrambling up-canyon from Eternia. I think this sector holds some new potential for amazing hard problems. Here are two projects I am psyched about.

The first one is a 17ft overhanging wall with small crimps and side pulls. I would estimate in the V13 range.

The second one is known as “The Ice Cave” This is an amazing, singular line of holds out of a massive roof. I think this could be on par with Riddles in the Park for quality and difficulty.

This natural stopping point is only part way to the back of the canyon. Soon after this cluster is a natural landmark. On the south west side of the canyon is a small pond. Near the pond is another interesting project often referred to as the Black Roof. This is a very pretty place. The first time I hiked this far was 4 years ago and I remember drinking unfiltered water from the pond with no after effect. There is no sign of human traffic here and it is exceptionally majestic. I hiked a half and hour past the pond, almost to the base of the highest snowfield.

Several years ago, Angela and I hiked up and out of Chaos Canyon. At the very top of the Canyon is a small wooden sign that reads “Chaos Canyon Descend with Caution”

There is good potential all the way up to the pond and then the rock peters out. It is only a matter of how far people are willing to hike. 10 years ago boulderers were mocked for hiking two miles to go to Emerald Lake. Now Upper Chaos, which is probably close to 3 miles is the norm.

Paul Robinson has made the third ascent of Jade V15 in RMNP. His ascent comes only a few weeks after Ty’s and a month or so after Daniel Woods. Paul sent the problem in 6 days, which is the same amount of time it took Ty. I predicted last week that Jade may have five ascents by the end of the year and get the downrate. Looks like things are headed that way with possibly Dave Graham, James Litz and Tony Lamiche still to try it. Either way, this problem is very hard and a fine effort on Paul’s part. It may be a while before another local does it.

Update: The only unrepeated problem harder than V13 in Colorado is Wade David’s Dark Crystal at Swissco.

The newest issue of Climbing Magazine has a page long report on the influence of web media on climbing culture. Check out Page 36 Issue 260 of the “Epics Issue.” I wrote up a paragraph about my thoughts for Bjorn Pohl, news editor of 8a.nu, who used a quote from me in his article. I said “Instead of the print media reporting on what happens, we can hear not only the opinion of the climber who does the route/boulder, but of the other climbers who were there.” Bjorn goes on to say (talking about me), “This he says give a more accurate portrayal of an ascent”
I really like what Ty and Fred have to say as well. Like it or not, it seems sites like 8a.nu, momentumvm.com and of course the numerous athlete blogs are here to stay, and will play a major role in climbing in the future.

I have gotten a lot of positive feedback on the site and I just wanted to take the time to say thank you to everyone who enjoys it.

My good friend Ryan Olson has launched a new website full of pictures and videos of Colorado. Of particular interest is a list of problems in Colorado V12 or harder, which I helped Ryan compile. Nice work, Olson!

This was taken from an interview off of 8a.nu with bouldering great Tony Lamiche

“Kairn : Your projects?
Tony : Beginning of septembre, I will leave for the US for a 2 months and
half bouldering trip.
I will go to Kentucky, at Red River Gorges where I will join some great
climbers such as Daniel Woods for bouldering. Then I will go to the Rocky
Mountain National Park (RMNP) and then to Bishop.”

Tony has proven himself time and again in America with ascents of The Fly 5.14d, Rumney, FA of the Mandala SDS, V14, Bishop, FA The Shield V13 LRC, as well as possibly the best day ever in Hueco Tanks when he did, among other things(all first day on each problem) Focus V10 (flash) Wellsite Dyno V10 (flash) Scream V10, Full Monty V12, Crown of Aragorn V13 (3rd go). It will be awesome to watch this crimp master at work in RMNP.

Here is a picture of me trying The Shield, at Little Rock City in Tennessee. I really think this is one of the most amazing problems in the world. I would love to go back and try it again. Tony had just put it up about a week before I was there.

The Shield V13

Hallet’s Peak

Today I went to Upper Chaos with Brian Camp and no agenda. We went to Seth’s new problem Two Ton Tongue V11. It was a humid day and we climbed under the roof between heavy rains.

The beta was quite confusing but it is always an enjoyable experience figuring out an intriuging sequence. Brian and I figured out different beta that worked for both of us. We dried up the top and both somehow managed to squeeze in an ascent before the rain and thunder came crashing down again. It was fun and I feel like I’m getting back into the swing of things after almost two weeks off. There were certainly hints of fall in the air.

Two Ton Whale V11