Upper Chaos

Posted on 17. Jul, 2007 by in RMNP

img_3003.JPG

It seems its been much too hot lately to go to Mt. Evans, so to the Park we go. The incut crimps suit the warm weather much more than the sloping, crystalline granite near Idaho Springs. I will not lie, however, it has been extremely hot and the mosquitos are almost intolerable. This hasn’t stopped people from climbing well. Alot of problems in Upper Chaos have been getting sent, including Skipper Roof Left, Dead Racoon, L. El Jorge, Reternia and Eternia, all V11 or V12 depending on who you talk to.
Several new projects have been chalked, most importantly “The Wildcat”, which is on the same boulder as the Green 45. I have been putting some effort into this the last few days with my friends Ty Landman and Nick Sherman. This project has some great moves and I would imagine it will get done within the week. Nick fell off the very end yesterday with an inspired effort. Seems to be in the V12 or V13 range.

img_3061.JPG
Ty on the “Wildcat Project”

Another project lurking in the talus is the overhang to the left of Riddles in the Park, and I would guess this would be in the V11-13 range. It climbs out a steep belly on pinches and small incuts.

Mr. Landman also put up a short but fun V10 near the Otech wall called Friday the 13th. He flashed the first ascent and most impressively, I think the grade will hold. Here is Nick Sherman doing the 2nd ascent.

img_3068.JPG
Nick Sherman sends Friday the 13th V10

There are easier problems seeing action as well, and the Terrorism Arete, put up by Dave Graham AND Chad Greedy is one of the more popular. The snowy landing certainly provides some comfort. This is one of the coolest lines in the canyon, with sustained and technical climbing the whole way.

Terrorism Arete V7

Simon Moore has added The White Russian V9, which climbs out a cool roof on interesting white rock to an arete. This problem faces Skipper D about 30yds away. It’s great to see all these additions to the Park and no doubt there is more to come.

3 Responses to “Upper Chaos”

  1. Max

    17. Jul, 2007

    everything in upper should receive the grade of V9/10/11/12…its the only real solution.

  2. big poppa chosscrush

    17. Jul, 2007

    glad to see terrorism finally gets the seven it deserves.

  3. Max

    18. Jul, 2007

    PS…Sherman finished the Wildcat project today…i think he called it Imperial.

Leave a Reply