Posted on 13. Jul, 2007 by in RMNP

Last Saturday I went up to Upper Chaos with Brian Capps. I was psyched on Eternia V11. There are only a couple problems V12 or harder that I haven’t done yet in Upper Chaos. One of which is Leviathan Style, which has gone unrepeated since a hold broke. The other is Jade, Daniel’s new V15. There are a couple other easier hard problems in Upper that I haven’t done, including Blake Rutherford’s Cessation of Cardiac Palpatitain V11, Barbed Wire Beard V11, Kawa V11, and Yamma Momma V10/11. Blake’s problem looks interesting although I haven’t tried it yet, and Yamma Momma looks really very good as well.
Anyways, I tried Eternia on Sat. and it took me awhile to figure out my beta. I finally started trying from the start but I was too tired to finish it. It is very long problem, maybe 14 roof moves with my beta.
I was very sore on Sunday from the phsyical climbing and hoped that maybe I would get three solid burns from the start. I got warmed up and on my first try I fell walking my feet out to the lip of the roof. I fell in the same spot on my second try and was starting to wonder if I had it in me to finish. With one final effort I got psyched up and held on. I think this problem is unique to Chaos with its big holds and hard undercling moves. I was certainly glad the end didn’t turn into an epic as I have seen so many times. Wade David got the send on video so I am sure that will pop up soon enough. In regards to the grade, it seems that when compared to a similar style problem (Right Martini) it doesn’t seem to be of similar difficulty. That wraps up last week of climbing and I am ready to head back up to the Park this weekend. I have scoped several new projects and now that I have done almost everything in Upper Chaos I am psyched on establishing some new hard classics of my own. There are two problems on my mind for Lower Chaos, Freshly Squeezed V12/13 and the Automater V13. I am just waiting unitl September and cooler temps to put some effort into these classics.

Here is some footage of Irish Si sending Reternia, which climbs the line to the right of Eternia via some wild toe hooks and tension. Daniel Woods did the FA last year and it was repeated by Jon Cardwell, Tyler Landman, Carlo Traversi, Matt Tschol, Ryan Olson, Seth Allred and myself last year.

2 Responses to “Eternia”

  1. Brian

    14. Jul, 2007

    such a strong effort only to be ruined by the egregious dab on the topout

  2. campusman

    16. Jul, 2007

    je sends hard

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