B3bouldering.com

The video of Daniel Woods doing the first ascent of Jade (Green 45 Project) is up at www.bigupproductions.com - check it out. Very, very nice.

Tomorrow my friends at www.bigupproductions.com will be releasing the video of Daniel doing the first ascent of the hardest boulder problem in Colorado (America?).

I have been very busy with work lately, but I have some time off next week and I am hungry to get out. Here is a random pic of Dave Graham on the FA of the Evangalion V13.

Five Ten V10s keeping it real in Hueco Tanks.

Prana has updated their website and there are a bunch of great photos. Angie has a nice little profile and there is a funny picture of Fred Nicole. Check it out.

The big news of the weekend was Angie making the third ascent and first female ascent of the amazing Hydrotwist V9, a Dave Graham problem from 2005. A scary and very tricky problem. Here are some pics of Chad Greedy getting it done.

Hydrotwist V9

My only day out was on Sun. and I sent the very nice Dead Racoon V11. This problem was put up by Dave Graham two years ago and has been overlooked. It is a very nice climb. It starts on a nice left hand undercling and a very bad sloper and does a hard move to a good edge. From there, a nice technical foot sequence leads to a move around the arete to a very cool hold. The problem changes style here and becomes very much a compression boulder.

Chris Cardwell on Dead Racoon V11

Chad caught the send on video, and as soon as I can I will get video up on the site.
I was quite happy to send and I think in the coming years this will become a classic Park problem. Chad and I also scoped out a link-up starting on the Dead Racoon and climbing into Hydrotwist. This might be V13 or V14 but it certainly goes.

I found a very nice picture of Tim Cliffords new problem, the Singularity V14 in Squamish.

Photo by Mike Chapman

Unfortunately, I have to work both Sat. and Sun. I am headed up to the Park for an evening session tonite. Enjoy the weekend!

I just got an email from my friend Cooper Roberts who is recently employed with Big Up Productions (Rampage, Dosage movies) They have a great new blog. Check it out at bigupblog.com, for all the behind the scenes action, with a Cooper twist.

Daniel Woods has made the first ascent of the Green 45 project in Chaos Canyon. I left Boulder at 3:30pm and ran up for an amazing evening session. It was a gorgeous night and there was a fun crew of people. Chuck Fryberger got some very nice video and you can look for it in the upcoming Dosage film. It took Daniel about 6 goes tonite and he sent it with the lights on. This certainly must be the hardest problem in Colorado and I would think he will call it V15. I have seen Daniel climb alot and I can confidently say that it was one of his best efforts. He tried very hard and seemed near his limit. Daniel called the problem Jade, but I prefer Ty’s suggestion, The Lord of Chaos. Tonite Daniel is the king. Congratulations!

8C boulder in RMNP

Daniel Woods, First Ascent, Jade V15

Check out the newest issue of Climbing Magazine. There is a small article about Angie’s recent accomplishments and my first published photographs (which appeared first on this website).

Maybe there is some confusion? Here is Angie doing the first female ascent of Worst Case Scenario V9 in Joe’s Valley. One day ascent.

Angie Payne, April 9, 2006

Today we went up to The Park. I was not expecting much with my split tip, but there was a fun crew there and I was psyched. The high in Boulder was near 90, however, a nice breeze kept conditions fairly good up in the talus. Angela climbed very well today and I think she will have some good sends this year. Worried about my skin, I felt like the Automater wasn’t the best option and we walked around the lake to Freshly Squeezed.

Freshly Squeezed

It took me a bit to remember my beta and I did all the moves except for the last throw to the lip. I did the dyno move with some weight and I think I can do it right away when I go back. I have never really put much effort into this boulder due to the weird landing and the sharpness of the rock, however it is worthwhile.

The grade of this problem is an interesting subject. Dave Graham did the FA in a day and his suggestion was V10 or V11. He has remained adamant about it being “not very hard” It went unrepeated for several years and then James Litz did the second ascent and suggested V13. Several climbers on 8a.nu comment that it may be V12, and I know that Sam Davis and Ethan Pringle both felt it was that hard. I find it interesting that the consensus is V13, but No More Greener Grass feels harder, and probably has fewer ascents. I will happily give my opinion if I send. I encourage everyone that has climbed the problem to give their opinion, and add to the consensus.