Here is some video of Seth Allred climbing the amazing Stranger in a Strange Land V12, on the Hallet Boulder in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Dave graham did the FA in 2003. This problem is at an elevation of about 10,500 ft.
The new E-grips website is up and running. Check it out at e-grips.com. I have a few “pro setter” tips up. I have also been feeling sick and I am not sure if I will get out this weekend.
Somewhere in the woods is a house sized boulder with perfect rock and loads of hard problems…
Daniel Woods has made the second ascent of Suspension of Disbelief V13 in Eldorado Canyon State Park. Woods worked on it a few days last year when he did the “stand start” and then for seven days this year.
I found this problem in the spring of 2005 right as it was getting to be too warm. Chad Greedy and I rappelled off and cleaned it up. When Dave Graham came through in Nov. of that year he was looking for projects. Chad and I hiked him up there. Dave’s initial reaction was “This is ridiculous! You guys take me to some heinous problem that will never go!” Chad and I disagreed and soon the crashpads were out. The problem climbs a gorgeous 18ft slightly overhung arete that culminates in a huge throw for a jug. Dave figured out the crazy sequence and I think he did the “stand start” quickly on his second day. We all agreed that it wasn’t really a boulder problem, just a good link, and Dave was psyched to come back for the proper sit start from the jug. As best as I can recall, he did the sit start in two days. He commented that it was very much like a Font. problem in style, and if it were there it would probably get 8B (V13). The problem is extremely technical and it was very impressive watching Dave find the right body postition almost right away. Interesting that Daniel has uprated it, and hopefully Dave will give his opinion as well. Either way, very impressive by both climbers. It is certainly too hot to give it a real effort until the fall, but I am quite psyched to go back.
Check out these pics of Dave doing the FA, and Daniel and I trying courtesy woodsfamilyclimbs.com (navigate to Photo Gallery, 2005 Photos, Bouldering in Eldo with Dave Graham - November 26, 2005).
Saturday I went to Carter Lake, only to be reminded how bad it is there and why I don’t go there mroe often. I was interested in doing Meat Rope V10 so I rapped off the top and chalked and cleaned up the holds. Meat Rope was put up in 1998 or so by Charlie Bentley. It has broken several times. We got warmed up down by the Kahuna Boulder and a did Super Chief V9 a couple of times and Kahuna Roof V6 as well. Those problems are actually pretty fun.
I had kind of forgotten about the Doughboy Arete V6. A year or so ago this huge boulder upended and left us with a new problem. Its kinda of tall but very nice. Angela lead the way and with a bunch of pads we all ran up it, even Camp.
I’ve been keeping it mellow lately just resting up and saving my energy for the Park and Mount Evans.
Yesterday I went to Veritas with Brian, Cooper and Ken Capps. I hadn’t tried this problem very much before and was psyched to be back. I think this is one of the most classic problems in Colorado and for once it is right off the road. So far there have been no access issues, so lets keep a low profile and a minimal number of cars at the parking area. Rain threatened all evening but held off in the end. It was very humid. Brian had tried the problem several days and did it from the sit-start on his first attempt of the day. He seems to be back in proper form. I did the moves right away and then struggled from the start. The crux involves a huge lock off from a slopey edge to an undercling. Pretty much an anti-Jamie move. I got tired from trying the sit so I tried the stand start and did that in a couple goes. The problem is tall but managable. I was fairly scared pulling over the slab.
Veritas was put up as a stand start (V9) in 2002 by Ken Kenney. Johnny Goicechea returned several years later to do the sit start (v11). I would love to go back to finish this one, because it is a gorgeous problem, and also because it couldn’t be more opposite my style.
Sunday I spent the entire day exploring the Poudre Canyon for more rock. I found house sized boulders, paddled across the river, walked through a giant talus field, touched immaculate rock, watched a moose, found a tick on my pants and saw nothing I would ever go back to climb on.
Where are the boulders?
Chuck Fryberger has been on a tear lately. He climbed very well in Joe’s Valley climbing many V10s and V11s very quickly. Last week he made the first flash of Veritas sds V11. Today he made a second try ascent of the gorgeous sport route project featured in my previous posts in Red Feather Lakes, calling it 5.13c. Well done Chuck!
Update: Chuck named the route Marylin Monre.
“The one great virtue a man may have is the loyalty to the adventure of travel”
Here is some old footage from our roadtrip. Two classic problems from Alabama, the aptly named Millipede V6 and God Module V11. This is a test run to put up some of my old footage. Enjoy.