Mt. Evans

Posted on 22. May, 2007 by in RMNP


Saturday I went to Mt. Evans with Rolson, Pinto and Camper. It took us two hours to hike in from Echo Lake. I had almost forty pounds of gear on my back and snowshoes on my feet. Conditions were great once we made it to the Dali Boulder.

Angie Payne on the Dali V9

Here is some of what I know about the history of Mt. Evans. Ben took me there in the summer of 2002. The first day I went there almost nothing had been climbed save The Ladder and some moderates near the dam. He was very psyched on a boulder that would become known as the Dali (Named after Salvadore Dali). Ben was psyched about naming problems after famous artists.

George Seurat

Albert Bierstadt

Salvadore Dali

Ben took me to this massive freight car sized boulder and I watched him do the first ascent of The Dali from the low start. We both agreed that it should be a proper sit start and that’s where we tried it from. I did the second ascent soon afterwords. Interesting that people do it from any number of higher starts now and still refer to it as “The Dali”. Clayton Reagan later did Super Gui, which starts on the lowest hold of Dali, climbs to the sloper and finishes out left. We were very psyched on what would become No More Greener Grass, but it seemed well out of the range of both of us. I remember thinking that it would be a great V14 someday. My thoughts were only confirmed when I brought James Litz there two years later and after failing to do all the moves told me that he thought it would be V15. Luke Parady would do the FA the next year giving it an appropriate grade of V12. I remember thinking that Clear Blue Skies V12 would get climbed as well as Mental Pollution V10 and that one day there would be a lot of really hard climbing on that boulder. I never invisioned Ode to the Modern Man V?.

Area A (Last year, the snow is MUCH higher now!)

Back to Sat. and I had my sights set on No More Greener Grass. I think this is the best V12 in Colorado, one of the best 12s I have seen in America and a must do for anyone that is capable of climbing that hard. It is a singular and obvious line, a perfect sit start and two incut jugs. It climbs straight out this sweeping wave of rock. It is continuous, and the consensus seems to be that it is a benchmark for the V12 grade. It couldn’t be less my style, all the more reason to bring myself up to the challenge. We had a very nice session on it, and I did all the moves on the upper section (albeit with a dab) using a scary but very cool dyno to a sloping hold on the lip. I was very close to doing the heinous shoulder move…


Brian Camp bearing down

at the bottom from the start but not quite. I hope that with a few more days I can strengthen the proper muscles to get this move down. I feel almost obligated to climb this problem, it is so amazing. It is certainly a glaring hole in my Colorado ticklist, but I am very psyched to put a lot of effort into it and try as hard as I possibly can.

Ryan Olson on No More Greener Grass V12

6 Responses to “Mt. Evans”

  1. big poppa chosscrush

    22. May, 2007

    for what it’s worth, bennett told chuck and i to start sitting w/ RH gaston and LH on a low horizontal edge on my first visit to the dali. i believe much of the confusion is due to the fact that you can start sitting in a number of orientations and even our guide seemed to have forgotten !

  2. chuffer

    22. May, 2007

    Thanks for the history lesson about one of the most inspiring bouldering areas in North America.

  3. Brian

    22. May, 2007

    If you could only have one alpine bouldering paradise (Evans or the park) which one would you pick? Just curious to see which area people prefer.

    Bonus for you that you have both I guess.

  4. jamie

    22. May, 2007

    Actually, that is where Ben did the FA. Sorry that my post is a little misleading. I started matched on the lowest possible hold.

  5. jamie

    22. May, 2007

    Brian, I always tell people that if I had one day to go climbing it would be Chaos Canyon. For some reason, I like the setting in the Park better (maybe its the lake) I like the rock better and I like the style of movement in the Park better. That being said, Evans is incredible and you can never go wrong climbing up there.

  6. Dan

    15. Jun, 2007

    Would anybody be willing to post directions to the Mt Evans Bouldering from Echo Lake?


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