Suspension of Disbelief

Posted on 09. May, 2007 by in News

Daniel Woods has made the second ascent of Suspension of Disbelief V13 in Eldorado Canyon State Park. Woods worked on it a few days last year when he did the “stand start” and then for seven days this year.

I found this problem in the spring of 2005 right as it was getting to be too warm. Chad Greedy and I rappelled off and cleaned it up. When Dave Graham came through in Nov. of that year he was looking for projects. Chad and I hiked him up there. Dave’s initial reaction was “This is ridiculous! You guys take me to some heinous problem that will never go!” Chad and I disagreed and soon the crashpads were out. The problem climbs a gorgeous 18ft slightly overhung arete that culminates in a huge throw for a jug. Dave figured out the crazy sequence and I think he did the “stand start” quickly on his second day. We all agreed that it wasn’t really a boulder problem, just a good link, and Dave was psyched to come back for the proper sit start from the jug. As best as I can recall, he did the sit start in two days. He commented that it was very much like a Font. problem in style, and if it were there it would probably get 8B (V13). The problem is extremely technical and it was very impressive watching Dave find the right body postition almost right away. Interesting that Daniel has uprated it, and hopefully Dave will give his opinion as well. Either way, very impressive by both climbers. It is certainly too hot to give it a real effort until the fall, but I am quite psyched to go back.

Check out these pics of Dave doing the FA, and Daniel and I trying courtesy woodsfamilyclimbs.com (navigate to Photo Gallery, 2005 Photos, Bouldering in Eldo with Dave Graham – November 26, 2005).

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