Whats up?

Posted on 17. Apr, 2007 by in Updates

I have been spending some time trying to figure out how I can edit and bring watchable climbing videos to the site. I have a lot of footage from our road trip last year and I have been much more diligent about getting problems on film.

This weekend was a gorgeous one and Saturday. I went to the Poudre and fell off the end of Circadian Rhythm again! What did Thomas Paine say? Mike Call was there and he got some really cool shots. The video will be ready and waiting if I can put that problem together.

There seems to be some confusion about the grade of the campus problem to the right of Circadian called One Man Army, which was climbed several times on Saturday. When Johnny Goicechea did the first ascent he called it V9.

Sunday was more chill and I finally committed to heading up and trying Whispers of Wisdom V10. This is a legendary problem, perhaps one of the best V10s in the world. It climbs an amazing 12 foot overhang with a tough move at the lip. The real deal however is the 35ft slab that you must climb once you get through the bottom. The difficulty does not exceed about 5.3, but a fall from the top would certainly have dire consequences.

Whispers of Wisdom Boulder Problem
Ben Scott ain’t scared.


It was a beautiful spring day. Estes Park seemed empty but calm. The trail was covered in snow almost the entire way, but when we got there the problem was dry. I warmed it up by doing some of the moves. Conditions were prime and I was psyched. On my first go from the start I got through the slapping sequence and into the crux. I reached up slowly to the slopey lip, established and gunned it for the edge. I hit the hold very well and curled my fingers into a crimp. A few more easy moves followed and soon I was standing on the lip. I moved slowly up the slab, making sure holds were still solid and enjoyed the simple movement of easy climbing and the sweet taste of success. Soon I was reaching for good holds near the lip. The stunning view of Hallets Peak shook me back to reality. What an amazing feeling.

Olson and friends showed up and I ran another lap on it. It was nice hanging out in the mountains with good friends. They were climbing on the Kind Traverse V11. Ian Glas did the FA around 1996, Dave Graham made the first flash and Angie did the first female ascent. I had first done it in Sept. 2002

Angie Payne
Angie Payne got a hair cut.

I usually don’t care too much for traversing but the rock and the moves are so good that I think this is a worthwhile problem. I tried the end once and then did it first try from the start. It feels good to have success like that on a problem I once thought was so hard. I tried to do it again but fell off the tenuous last move. It was nice to be back in the mountains. I think I will head up to the Poudre Canyon on Wednesday and finish off Circadian. It is hard to get that one out of my head. I worry that it will get too warm and I will have to hold off until the fall.

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