Joe’s Valley Weekend

Posted on 05. Apr, 2007 by in Joe's Valley

Angie and I were ready to head back to Joe’s for a three day weekend. I was feeling tired and thought that I might be getting sick. It was really snowy over Vail Pass but clear sailing into the night and into Utah. We were meeting up with Mike Call, who was interested in shooting video with us.

Friday we met MC in the parking lot at Area 51. Angie was psyched on Resident Evil and I was psyched on Black Lung. We also met up with Rob D, Mark (Cookie) Hobson and Seth Allred from Boulder. Angie tried several different methods before getting what may be the first female ascent of Resident Evil. I think both her and MC were psyched to have it finished and on film. Most impressively however, Rob dispatched with Black Lung V13. It was nice to see someone climb such an amazing problem. Mike and I talked about doing a spoof of the original Black Lung video he had shot with Ben Moon. I know that Rob was really psyched to have a hard send on video, as it should be. I was disappointed that I felt so tired. Its hard to drive all the way to Utah, get out of the car and try and climb a V13.

From there we went over to the Right Sign Area. I had put chalk on a direct start to They Call Him Jordan a year ago, and a few weeks ago, Isaac Calderio sent it calling it “We Call Him Michael” V11.

Joe's Valley Bouldering
We Call Him MikeCAll V11

Joe's Valley Bouldering
Cookie

Joe's Valley Bouldering
Cookie

Cookie figured out some different beta which may make it slightly easier, but I stuck with the old sequence, and we both sent it. It took a lot out of me and I was feeling quite rundown, so I decided to rest until Saturday and try to save some skin.

Saturday I was nearly useless. I hardly put my shoes on, except to climb Low Tide, a really nice V6 across from the Angler at the Riverside Area. I watched, took pictures and spotted the crew. Rob again won employee of the day by climbing The Worm Turns V11, Eden V9, Save Yourself V8, Anatomy Act V7, Hydrogonated Oil V10, and Jitterbug Perfume V11. I don’t think he had tried any of those problems before. Nice effort Rob!

Joe's Valley Bouldering
Cookie on Eden V9

Sunday I was feeling a little better and we went to Jitterbug Perfume. There are four problems that I haven’t done in Joe’s Valley and I think they are four of the best problems in America. They are The Wind Below V8, Trent’s Mom V10, Jitterbug Perfume V11 and Black Lung V13. I got through the bottom of Jitterbug 5 or 6 times, but kept falling on this ridiculous rose move at the top.

Joe's Valley Bouldering
Pulling tough on Jitterbug Perfume V11

Joe's Valley Bouldering
Approaching the mantle

I finally decided to change my sequence but I was so scared on the mantle I could not press it out. In a silly act of desperation I grabbed Angie’s leg and pulled myself over. Not one of my finer moments, but somehow an appropriate way to end the trip. I am gonna try to get back one more time and finish up a few things before it gets warm. Jitterbug will be on my mind!

Joe's Valley Bouldering

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