Posted on 16. Mar, 2007 by in Front Range


Last week I reported on a new problem being done, somewhere in the woods. Here’s the scoop. Four years ago I lived with Greg Loomis. He was really psyched on exploring around Gross Reservior and Walker Ranch and found some really nice boulders. One boulder in particular had a very cool arete project on it. Greg had done a stand start to the problem and called it Shipwreck V8, but the obvious low start had remained unclimbed (props Greg for being there first!). I went there with Dave Hume, Brian Capps and several others, to try the low start. I recall doing most of the moves and thinking it was hard. Fast forward to this summer, when Ryan Olson and I went for a hike and I thought to go check out the arete. We bushwacked through some tough country and finally made it to the project. Olson was really psyched. The heat of summer subsided into a chilly fall, and then an artic winter. Things had just recently warmed up. I was looking for something new and Olson calls me a few days ago and asked me if I was interested in going back. I was, and we drove up out of Boulder and into the hills. In a superb effort Olson made the FA after several days of work, and named it Burnout.

Ryan Olson on the first ascent of Burnout V12

I know he feels it is one of the hardest problems he has done, and this time he really had the vision. I pieced together the moves and today we went back. Conditions were pretty good. Cool, cloudy and slightly humid. I felt very confident. The bottom section is about 8 moves of intense squeezing and heel hooking.


A proud line.

The upper part is an insecure three move V8 on slopey, greasy holds. I thrutched through the lower belly and fell off the upper part twice before punching through and sketching my way up the tall and insecure top. It was nice to get the second ascent. I think this will become a classic problem and it is only 30 min. from Boulder. I also think that it may be V12, which makes Rolson’s effort even more impressive. I will do what I can to get video of my ascent up as soon as possible. As long as people stay motivated, it seems the Front Range continues to produce new and classic problems!

Leave a Reply