Joe’s Valley

Posted on 12. Mar, 2007 by in Joe's Valley


Joe’s is so good that I just had to get back, this time with Angela. We got out of Boulder around 4pm and zoomed down I-70 to Utah. We were meeting up with some friends on Sat. and guess what, I was psyched. Saturday we awoke to some beautiful weather. The day started off slowly with me getting totally shut down by Blackout V12. This problem felt really hard again and I decided to scrap my plans and see something new. With no agenda we found ourselves jumping across the river and scrambling up a side canyon to try The Moment of Truth V10, a really nice polished boulder put up by Harry Robertson a few years ago. It was just barely climbable. It took a bit of work to figure out the top out.

The Moment of Truth

Angie Payne stares down some slopers.

The smear normally used to do the first move was covered in ice, so I just put my foot on the slickest foothold one can imagine and did the move anyway.

We then went over to Area 51, where I decided I would finally start trying Black Lung V13. We met up with some friends Brian Camp, Kelly McBride and Jason Pinto there. Angela was psyched on Resident Evil V10 and since these problems are right next to each other it worked out nicely. Black Lung is one of the best problems in the country, in my opinion, and it holds a place amongst my lifetime goals. Ben Moon did the first ascent a number of years ago, which was documented in a nice short by Mike Call. I did the first move in a few goes and this was incredibly motivating. I then spent the next bit working on the upper part, not sure exactly how I was going to do it.

“Black Lung is a really hard problem” Ben Moon

I got very close using a big jump out right. In between burns I did Resident Evil on my first go. Angela made a good effort on Resident Evil and fell right at the top. I know that she wants to go back and finish that one off.

Brian Camp sends Resident Evil V10

Camp is a heel hook master.

Angie Payne.

After the monster session we went back to the Left Fork but I was too tired to finish Trent’s Mom. I fell again on the big move out right. I musn’t go there when I am tired. We ate pizza that night and afterwards went out for a night session. I was really psyched and I repeated The Scrawny and Brawny V10 in four goes exactly.

Sunday, I was exhausted. I was so tired I wasn’t sure if I would even be able to climb. I did this little V9 arete, in between spotting, near Beyond Life and then we went up the road and I did Scary Monsters, a nice v6 up from the Riverside Area. It was a long drive back to Boulder. We are certainly going back in 3 weeks for unfinished business and maybe I can squeeze in another trip from now until then. Spring weather in Joe’s is amazing and I feel very fortunate to have such an area just a days drive away.

One Response to “Joe’s Valley”

  1. tim k

    14. Mar, 2007

    Headed back to UT today, let me know when you come out and we can make easy fiesta party of the projects. tk

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