Joe’s Valley

Posted on 05. Mar, 2007 by in Joe's Valley


We arrived in Castle Dale late Friday night and thoughts of tall, black faces and gorgeous streaked walls filled my head. Saturday, we (Brian Capps, Ryan Olson and myself) woke up to a sunny but cold 12 degrees. We drove into the canyon and stopped to check out a new line in the Left Fork put up by Paul Robinson called a Wrinkle in Time. I have looked at this boulder for several years but it sits in the river. Paul was lucky enough to be there when the frozen water created a landing and put up a really nice V11. Unfortunately the water was not frozen and we moved on down the Fork. We met up with some friends Jason, Chad, and the Landman Brothers at the Riverside Area.

Tyler Landman on Not to be Taken Away II

Ty and I were psyched to check out Blackout, a new v12 put up by Paul Robinson. Brian and Chad were psyched on Gentleman Jack, a nice V11 added by Jason Kehl a few years ago. I had a nice long session on Blackout but failed to get the send. I found it quite hard, and surprisingly Ty did not do it either. We climbed on it for several hours. It is an amazing sandstone problem and I hope to get back soon to try again. We got some nice pictures from the session.

Myself on Blackout V12

Tyler Landman crimping hard.


It was really cold all day and the sun went down, so we moved on to some more moderate things. I quickly did a nice V9 called Worst Case Scenario, just down the hill from Trent’s Mom. We then went up and tried the latter, and in the last bit of light I fell off the last hard move. This is another outstanding boulder and I would love to come back and get the send. I felt tired from a full day of climbing. It never really got above 25 degrees. In fact Jeff’s water was freezing as we climbed, but I like it when it is cold. The friction was amazing. We went back to Castle Dale and had a nice pizza dinner in town.


The next day we decided to check out a new boulder none of us had climbed on before called the Powerline Boulder. Super classic lines abound! I had my sights set on The Man from the Past V11. A really nice problem that starts on poor underclings and moves through a small pocket. The upper part is commiting, tall and classic. We all worked on it for a while. I finally snagged the first move and fired it all the way to the top. It was a nice one day send for me on a very short trip. Another amazing Joe’s Valley boulder! Check out video of Jason Kehl climbing The Man from the Past on

Chad Greedy on The Man from the Past

Brian Capps attempting the crux of The Man from the Past

Jeffery Landman swings around on some sick holds.

We moved on around the corner to perhaps the best V8 in the country, The Wind Below. Another stunning line and I must say big props to Jason Kehl for finding, cleaning and putting up all of these majestic lines! I decided to rest a bit and give Jeff and Chad some time to send. I didn’t get to give it a good effort because Olson had to get back home but I shall return. This problem is on my lifetime ticklist.

Brian Capps below the Wind Below V8

Jeff Landman getting it done.

Joe’s Valley remains one of the best bouldering areas in the country and it is because of these big, proud and stunning lines that I shall return to time and again. On down the road we go…


12 Responses to “Joe’s Valley”

  1. chuffer

    06. Mar, 2007

    nice blog entry JE!

    thanks – chuffer

  2. big poppa chosscrush

    06. Mar, 2007



    [session looked awesome. too many strong kids exist nowadays.]

  3. jamie

    06. Mar, 2007

    in the words of Borat, Brian did NOT send.

  4. tuck

    06. Mar, 2007

    JE- whats up with the bouldering at the Red? I’ll be down there this weekend. Nice work on Man from the Past, that rig is f’n haaard.

  5. big poppa chosscrush

    06. Mar, 2007

    anything that starts with capps not sending ends with a lie.

    i can’t believe you’d lie to my face, by route of your fingers and my screen.

    ps: campusmang loves you x10 for realz

  6. big poppa chosscrush

    06. Mar, 2007

    who’s organic pad is the grey and yellow jobby? proliferation = domination.

  7. jamie

    06. Mar, 2007

    you want to go to the cove. ask at miguels people will know. its in a hairpin turn near military wall, also check out the Bulldog. outstanding V8.

  8. jamie

    06. Mar, 2007

    capps most definitely not do wind below and that is his grey and yellow organic

  9. climbingnarc

    09. Mar, 2007

    P-Rob Wrinkle In Time video at

    Sick meltout!

  10. Saul Goode

    12. Mar, 2007

    Where can I find the Powerline Boulder? There is no beta online for it anywhere.

  11. Skin

    17. Oct, 2007

    Where is the powerline boulder?

  12. […] that out of the way, Jamie Emerson has a very nice write up about his trip this weekend to Joe’s Valley. As I stated above, I don’t pretend to know […]

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