Hueco Tanks

Posted on 04. Feb, 2007 by in News


With some time off in early Jan. I escaped the icy world of Boulder and went down to Hueco for a few days. It was an awesome trip and I climbed some amazing problems. I had my sights set on repeating Fred Nicole’s El Techo de los Tres B (The Roof of the Three B’s), as well as some other things if time allowed. I drove down with my friend Jason Pinto.

Thursday. Jason was psyched for the classic V5 Lobster Claw, so the first day we hiked up the chains to the New Meadow. While he played on that, I got warmed up by sending the Anal Intruder #10, a powerful V11 to the left. This problem is a really nice power problem and I did it pretty quickly. It was a good way to start the trip. I didn’t climb again until the evening when I put some time in on El Techo. It felt really good and I was psyched to learn that my friend Ty had sent the problem earlier that day.

Friday. We decided to head out on tour to the East Spur with some friends. Chad, Ty, Jeff, Brick, Jason, Seth, Wade etc etc. We had so much fun. Ty destoyed The Crown of Aragorn in a few tries and I did all the hard moves very quickly. After the morning session we then went to the Chupacabras, I ate some lunch and chilled. It felt good to not feel rushed. In the afternoon we walked up the trail to the Full Monty. I was really psyched to try this problem. It is 4 moves of V6 to 2 really hard moves, the last of which is a big jump to a jug. An amazing problem, in my opinion. I did all the moves in a few tries. I tried about 15 times from the start and on my best effort the jug ripped out of my hand. So close!! I was tired and needed some rest. We stopped at the Flame and Seth nearly flashed it by static-ing all the moves. Although I hadn’t done much, I was psyched to be close on three hard problems.

Saturday. I took a rest day and I began to formulate the idea that I could possibly do all three problems, El Techo, Crown and Full Monty, in the same day. The TransMountain Trifecta as Feinberg dubbed it. I got super psyched on this idea because it seemed like if I felt good it was certainly possible. The plan would be to do El Techo in the morning, then get on a tour at noon and do Full Monty and Crown of Aragorn. I had an amazing fish dinner at the Macaroni Grill with some good friends.

Sunday. We got on North early, around 8:30am. I bumped into some friends, Brian Camp and Nicros Nic. The temperature was perfect, around 40 degress in the shade. It was a beautiful sunny morning in Hueco Tanks. They came over to cheer me on and I sent El Techo on my third go after getting warmed up. It felt really good. I have never climbed a V13 so quickly!!! It is such a cool problem, super technical with all kinds of crazy toehooks and tension. Unfortunately we couldn’t get back on tour so the next part would have to wait until the next Monday, our last day in Hueco. We stayed on North and Jason crushed Babyface in a few tries, a super effort on his part, which was really cool. I climbed the huge 40 ft. slab on the back of the Mushroom Boulder under a gorgeous west Texas sunset. What a day!!!

Monday. I was hoping to be able to try Full Monty and do it quickly in the morning and then rest all day for the evening session on Crown. We went to Full Monty and I did it third try, a proper send!!! I swung way out on the last move but held it in. It was the only way the day could start. I think the Full Monty may be the best V12 in Hueco Tanks. Classic climbing. I then rested for about 4 hours, just letting the psyche build for the final showdown with Crown of Aragorn. It was my last day in Hueco and I was starting to feel it. Time was running out. We finally made it over to the maze around 4pm. I was so psyched!!! I warmed up by doing Better Eat Your Wheaties on my second go. The air temperature was around 40 degress and there was a breeze blowing. Perfect conditions. I fumbled my first few tries from the start when our guide informed us that the tour would be cut short!!! Everyone gathered their things and with one ditch attempt and about 10 minutes left in the tour (and my trip to Hueco) I sent it in good form. It felt so good. What a classic boulder! The Crown of Aragorn, the first V13 in Hueco Tanks!!! A perfect way to end the trip. Four days of climbing, one V11, one V12, and two v13s. I got some video from Wade David and I will be posting the video as soon as possible.

3 Responses to “Hueco Tanks”

  1. Don Bird

    05. Feb, 2007

    Nice work Jims… What’s next? Sunspot?

  2. tuck

    09. Feb, 2007

    nice work jamie. good to get to see you and Ang for an hour or so. I’m heading out to Hueco for the Rodeo, but until then and after wards i’ll be stuck in the library. hope to see you this summer. keep the site updated regularly….please!

  3. thevealchop

    26. Feb, 2007

    Nice trip, JE. Dream trip, actually.

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