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Ben Scott and Angie and I went to the Poudre to check out some new projects and an old unrepeated Clayton Reagan problem called Twilight V11. The first place we stopped was this amazing project that Ben found. It took us a while to get across the river and only then after a sketchy rock hop.

The project is a beautiful 50 degree wall with amazing incut crimps, right down by the river. A perfect riverbed landing. Total Swiss style. I tried it really hard for about two hours and I did two of the 6 moves. It is really really hard. I think it would be safe to say it is in the 8C range. I am 100% confident that someone will climb it someday, but only at a very high level. It is so cool to come across something like this, that is, in a way, the future. It’s very exciting. Here are some pictures:

We then went up the road a bit to play on Twilight, a really cool problem at the base of an intimidating wall. Ben slipped on the ice and slid 50ft! right into the river. He got totally soaked but of course shrugged his shoulders and continued on. It took me a while to figure out the beta but I couldn’t quite put it together. Actually on my best go I got to the top out but couldnt rock over because 1. It’s really scary and 2. It’s even scarier when it hasnt been cleaned in two years and its covered in ice and moss. I am psyched to go back. Angela got really close to the stand start, which is probably really hard V9. Check it out:

Saturday I went up to Boulder Canyon with Brian Capps and met up with Theo, Sander, Harry, Cooper and a few others to try Freak Brothers II V10. I did it first try that day, which was nice and then Brian flashed it. Of course we had to go and do the problem of the week. Harry did it later. It was really sunny but very cold. We then went over to Eldo and I quickly worked out the moves and sent Qigong (also known as the Schulte Arete) a supposed V11 but it seemed easier. It was very sharp. Harry also did it. It was nice to get out but I was still feeling run down.

Later that night I went over to watch the SBS Finals. There was a $5000 cash purse so some big names were in town. In a surprise upset, Paul beat out Daniel. Paul figured out a new sequence on Men’s 4 which gave him the victory. Angie eeked out a victory by toping out just ahead of Emily. Nice job Ange!!! Here are the results:

1.Paul Robinson
2.Daniel Woods
3. Carlo Traversi

1. Angie Payne
2. Emily Harrington
3. Alex Puccio

Last week, Ty Landman made a nice addition to the growing list of worthwhile problems in Boulder Canyon. This one is called Freak Brothers II. It’s a three move V10 or V11. I believe that the young Brit flashed the First Ascent. Nice one Ty! Boulder Canyon is not really a destination area, however over the last few years there are a number of worthwhile granite problems to go try after work or school. Check it:

L. Graham Arete V11
R. Graham Arete V9
Freedom V9/10
The Amendment V10/11
Cage Free V11
Hardboiled V11
Surface Tension V10

Before I got sick, I went up and finished off Hardboiled. I went there by myself and got some video, unfortunately the light was poor and I decided not to use it. Look for it in the B3DVD!!!

Mens Finals:

1 Daniel Woods
2 Paul Robinson
3 Sean McColl
4 Matt Bosley
5 Ethan Pringle
6 Vasya Vorotnikov
7 Brian Kim
8 Gabor Szekely
9 Ryan Roden
10 Zach Lerner
11 Nicholas Sherman
12 Ryan Olson
13 Steven Jeffery
14 Tyler Haack
15 Ryan Banister
16 Patrick Luther
17 Paul Wallace
18 Max Zolotukhin
19 Tyler Davis
20 Grady Bagwell

Womens Finals:

1 Alex Puccio
2 Elizabeth Asher
3 Angela Payne
4 Kasia Pietras
5 Tomoko Ogawa
6 Meagan Martin
7 Natasha Barnes
8 Marah Bragdon
9 Sydney McNair
10 Tiffany Hensley
11 Alexandra Johnson
12 Emily Ziffer
13 Kate Reese
14 Andrea Szekely
15 Elizabeth Broun
16 Kara Caputo
17 Alyrene Dorey
28 Mykael McGinley
19 Melissa Main
20 Elise Ebner

Nationals was totally crazy, I was super sick all week and only got to climb two days. The problems were super cool, unfortunately womens three and four were too easy. I think we were all kind of down about it having set so many good comps in the past, but not to worry, we shall be back!!!

The qualifying round of the ABS8 Nationals is now complete. Nearly 130 climbers convened at Earth Treks in Timonium, MD to fight for 40 spots in tomorrow’s finals. The day was very successful, the problems were fun, and tons of impressive climbing went down. Here are the unofficial results from the qualifying round:

Men
1. Daniel Woods
2. Paul Robinson
3. Ethan Pringle
4. Sean McColl
5. Brian Kim
6. Ryan Banister
7. Zach Lerner
8. Matt Bosley
9. Vasya Vorotnikov
10. Ryan Olson
11. Nick Sherman
12. Gabor Szekely
13. Steven Jeffery
14. Tyler Davis
15. Ryan Roden
16. Patrick Luther
17. Max Zolotukhin
18. Grady Bagwell
19. Tyler Haack
*also in finals, position unknown: P. Wallace

Women
1. Alex Puccio
2. Lizzy Asher
3. Sydney McNair
4. Angie Payne
5. Tiffany Hensley
6. Kasia Pietras
7. Tomoko Ogawa
8. Alex Johnson
9. Emily Ziffer
10. Meghan Martin
11. Kate Reese
12. Natasha Barnes
13. Aly Dorey
14. Mykael Ann McGinley
15. Marah Bragdon
16. Andrea Szekely
17. Kara Caputo
18. Elisa Ebner
19. Elizabeth Broun
20. Melissa Main

Finals should be a great show. Check back soon for more results!

Brian Camp on the Red Snapper (V13) Vedauwoo Central

Today I went up to Vedauwoo and did the second ascent (Andy Raether did the FA) of The Red Snapper V13. It was cold, windy and miserable. Not to mention I postholed for about 45 min. to get to the problem. The problem is really slopey and my stomach was quite sore from trying the other day. I am glad I don’t have to go to Vedauwoo anymore this winter. Its nice to clean up old lines I have tried before. I think I am gonna start putting some serious effort into Circadian Rhythm. Monday I fly out of Denver for the ABS Nationals at Earth Treks Timonium. The comp. starts on Thursday and I will post unofficial results and pictures as soon as I can. I’m psyched to set for such a strong field. Check out the website at www.absnationals.org. Last time I set a comp in Baltimore there were almost 800 people in attendance, so it should be a good time!

Crown of Aragorn Bouldering Video

Check out this video, courtesy Wade David, of me sending The Crown of Aragorn V13 in The East Spur, Hueco Tanks.

With some time off in early Jan. I escaped the icy world of Boulder and went down to Hueco for a few days. It was an awesome trip and I climbed some amazing problems. I had my sights set on repeating Fred Nicole’s El Techo de los Tres B (The Roof of the Three B’s), as well as some other things if time allowed. I drove down with my friend Jason Pinto.

Thursday. Jason was psyched for the classic V5 Lobster Claw, so the first day we hiked up the chains to the New Meadow. While he played on that, I got warmed up by sending the Anal Intruder #10, a powerful V11 to the left. This problem is a really nice power problem and I did it pretty quickly. It was a good way to start the trip. I didn’t climb again until the evening when I put some time in on El Techo. It felt really good and I was psyched to learn that my friend Ty had sent the problem earlier that day.

Friday. We decided to head out on tour to the East Spur with some friends. Chad, Ty, Jeff, Brick, Jason, Seth, Wade etc etc. We had so much fun. Ty destoyed The Crown of Aragorn in a few tries and I did all the hard moves very quickly. After the morning session we then went to the Chupacabras, I ate some lunch and chilled. It felt good to not feel rushed. In the afternoon we walked up the trail to the Full Monty. I was really psyched to try this problem. It is 4 moves of V6 to 2 really hard moves, the last of which is a big jump to a jug. An amazing problem, in my opinion. I did all the moves in a few tries. I tried about 15 times from the start and on my best effort the jug ripped out of my hand. So close!! I was tired and needed some rest. We stopped at the Flame and Seth nearly flashed it by static-ing all the moves. Although I hadn’t done much, I was psyched to be close on three hard problems.

Saturday. I took a rest day and I began to formulate the idea that I could possibly do all three problems, El Techo, Crown and Full Monty, in the same day. The TransMountain Trifecta as Feinberg dubbed it. I got super psyched on this idea because it seemed like if I felt good it was certainly possible. The plan would be to do El Techo in the morning, then get on a tour at noon and do Full Monty and Crown of Aragorn. I had an amazing fish dinner at the Macaroni Grill with some good friends.

Sunday. We got on North early, around 8:30am. I bumped into some friends, Brian Camp and Nicros Nic. The temperature was perfect, around 40 degress in the shade. It was a beautiful sunny morning in Hueco Tanks. They came over to cheer me on and I sent El Techo on my third go after getting warmed up. It felt really good. I have never climbed a V13 so quickly!!! It is such a cool problem, super technical with all kinds of crazy toehooks and tension. Unfortunately we couldn’t get back on tour so the next part would have to wait until the next Monday, our last day in Hueco. We stayed on North and Jason crushed Babyface in a few tries, a super effort on his part, which was really cool. I climbed the huge 40 ft. slab on the back of the Mushroom Boulder under a gorgeous west Texas sunset. What a day!!!

Monday. I was hoping to be able to try Full Monty and do it quickly in the morning and then rest all day for the evening session on Crown. We went to Full Monty and I did it third try, a proper send!!! I swung way out on the last move but held it in. It was the only way the day could start. I think the Full Monty may be the best V12 in Hueco Tanks. Classic climbing. I then rested for about 4 hours, just letting the psyche build for the final showdown with Crown of Aragorn. It was my last day in Hueco and I was starting to feel it. Time was running out. We finally made it over to the maze around 4pm. I was so psyched!!! I warmed up by doing Better Eat Your Wheaties on my second go. The air temperature was around 40 degress and there was a breeze blowing. Perfect conditions. I fumbled my first few tries from the start when our guide informed us that the tour would be cut short!!! Everyone gathered their things and with one ditch attempt and about 10 minutes left in the tour (and my trip to Hueco) I sent it in good form. It felt so good. What a classic boulder! The Crown of Aragorn, the first V13 in Hueco Tanks!!! A perfect way to end the trip. Four days of climbing, one V11, one V12, and two v13s. I got some video from Wade David and I will be posting the video as soon as possible.